Question about Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the dryer has been cleared of lint. the lint filter area is clear and the vent is fine then the timer is probably bad. Why? because a lot of current goes through the timer and most of the time the contacts in it get burred or burnt. Unless you have a bad breaker I would advise replacing the timer.
Posted on May 20, 2009
There are several things that can cause this problem. It could be a defective hot surface igniter, inop thermostat, bad gas solenoid valves ect. You will first need to check and see if the hot surface igniter is coming on. You can verify this by turning on the dryer and then watching for the hot surface igniter to start glowing from the burner inspection hole at the bottom of the dryer(or remove the front/back panel if no window). It should glow very bright. Then after it is glowing to it's brightest point you should then hear a click(the sound of the gas valve solenoid opening) and the burner should come on. There are two gas valves in the system as a safety so you could have one valve that is bad. When the gas valves are charged they should be magnetized on the top of the valves. You can also give these valves a light tap to see if they are sticking. The gas valve solenoids and bad igniter are the most common cause of inop gas dryers. It could also be a bad thermostat or high limit cut off switch is open. Take a look at the dryer and let me know what you find. Also be careful doing any work on your dryer without the proper tools and knowledge. You could hurt yourself from electrical shock or explosion if you are not careful.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
SOURCE: Gas dryer won't heat up
Here is a tip that will help you with your problem..
believe it or not it is not an electrical problem, but an ignitor problem...
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
Posted on Dec 10, 2010
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