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Electric heater for hot water cause pressure valve to leak

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1 Answer

I have a GE Profile Water Heater Model #SE40M12AA01.


I recommend safety changes to prevent ruptured water heater and assorted leaks.
135 degree hot water.
Maybe replace TP valve if it is dripping.
Drip pan under water heater with 3/4" drain line to outside.
Expansion tank on incoming cold water line to absorb pressure build-up, and prolong life of tank and plumbing.

Here's why:

1) Yes you can have scalding hot water.

2) I recommend 135 degrees since that will burn the evil right out of ya. And generally kill clothes washing bacteria.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) 150 is dangerous and can seriously burn skin in 1.5 seconds. Not safe around children and elderly.

4) Temperature settings on electric water heater are approximate, since thermostats are calibrated approximately, and read temperature through tank wall.

5) Also if you want to increase amount of hot water for high-consumption household, then setting tank temperature upward is one solution since more cold water is mixed with hot, so amount of hot inside tank goes further.

6) High temperature can cause TP valve to release water.
TP valve is pressure-temperature safety valve. Do NOT cap off.
Rating should be 125 psi and 180 degrees ... but all things water heater are approximate, and TP valves need replacement now and then.
It is not recommended by water heater manufactures to use 150 psi TP valve when water heater came with 125 psi. Rating shows in small print on end of TP. New TP valves sold at local hardware. Let tank cool before installing new one.

7) Higher temperature and high pressure can rupture tank.
Pressure over 80 psi shortens life of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Put BTG100 pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to check pressure.

8) You need a drip pan with 3/4" drain line to outdoors, or to drain vent line, to prevent flood caused by ruptured water heater.
Turn water heater off when going on vacation.
Inspect water heater each 6 months.
Drip pan available at local home center or hardware:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#drip

9) Heated water expands and puts pressure on tank and pipes.
Water does not compress... so when water gets hotter it expands against tank wall and against pipes.
Especially in closed system (check valve present) when system is without expansion tank.
Expansion tank is installed on incoming cold water line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#expansion

Oct 31, 2012 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

How do i install a pressure tank to my water heater?


Do you mean expansion tank? To relieve pressure?
Expansion tank goes on cold water line before cold enters tank.
See image:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/water-heater-expansion-tank.jpg

Expansion tanks are installed when TP valve is constantly drizzling hot water due to very hot temperature settings. Or when water pressure is high, etc
It's also smart to install expansion tank so plumbing lasts longer, and older tank is less likely to rupture and cause damage. Inspect tank for leaks each 6 months.
Some regions require expansion tank by local code.
Water heater can be damaged when pressure exceeds 80psi. : Test pressure using pressure gauge at water heater drain valve.

Other resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/BTG-100-Pressure-gauge.jpg

Sep 27, 2011 | General Electric Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a 1991 40 gl and it fell through the floor which is like 2 ft off the ground. turned the water off and replaced the pipes it has its own lever type power supply with the screw in fuses 30 amp (2) of...


You have 2 problems with several possible causes:
You have 10-year-old electric water heater that was reinstalled after falling down, and doesn't heat the water.
And you have no hot or cold water pressure, and no pipes are leaking.

1) First problem is lack of water pressure throughout house.
Turn on outdoor spigot nearest to water meter.
This spigot will tell you if problem is inside the house or between the house and meter.
If spigot runs full force, then you probably have clogged pipe where water heater connects to main cold line, or the main shut off valve got clogged with sediment that broke off inside the pipe when you were working on water heater.
Open and close shut off valve to see if that helps. Then disassemble pipes and track back the problem. Put pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to watch pressure drop when turning on indoor faucet.
Read following information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Water heater doesn't work:
Test across wires at top of heater to see if you are getting correct voltage:
If tank is receiving correct voltage, then no hot water puts suspicion on upper element or upper thermostat, or both.
Open following link for electric water heater troubleshoot steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Jul 30, 2011 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

Pressure releif valve leaking


Hot water pressure relief valves serve two functions. The first is to remove high-pressure water from the hot water tank. The second function is to act as a high temperature valve to remove water that exceeds a predetermined point for the valve. Both of these relief settings are preset at the valve factory. Many pressure relief valves will come with a metal tag that identifies these release points. If you're attempting to remove the hot water heater pressure relief valve, pay careful attention to ensure that you replace with the correct valve.

Your hot water heater has a pressure relief valve safety mechanism. When pressure inside the water tank exceeds certain limitations, the valve opens up to allow the pressure to be released. A faulty pressure relief valve will not release excess pressure, which could cause extensive damage to your home. You should test the hot water heater pressure relief valve once every six months to ensure proper operation. If the pressure relief valve fails the test, replace the valve with a new one immediately

Locate the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater. The pressure relief valve has a lever handle on top with a drain pipe attached to it. The pressure relief valve is most often on the side of the water tank toward the top. Newer models of hot water heaters have the pressure relief valve on top of the water tank.

  • Inspect the area around the pressure relief valve for signs of leaking water. If there is leaking water near the relief valve connection, replace the relief valve. If no leaking is evident, proceed with testing the pressure valve.

  • 3

    Examine the area below the pressure relief valve drain pipe. Most water heater closets either have a drain in the floor below the pipe or the pipe is inserted into another pipe to direct the water out of the home. If the end of your drain pipe is not in another pipe or there is no drain in the floor, place a bucket under the drain pipe to catch water when you test the pressure relief valve.

  • 4

    Pull the lever handle on the top of the pressure relief valve up with your fingers. A working lever will lift up without difficulty.You should begin to hear water going through the drain pipe. Slowly release the lever to shut off the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is good. If you did not hear water running through the drain pipe, lower the lever on the pressure relief valve and replace the valve. If the lever is difficult to raise, do not force the lever. Replace the pressure relief valve.


  • Now with all that said if you have a closed loop water supply system and you have a pressure vessal/expantion tank it may have gone bad and is making the TP valve leak. you can call your water provider to see if you have closed loop system.

    Feb 04, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

    1 Answer

    It is leaking out of the top. not out of the hot or cold valves but out of a nut by the cold side.


    Your tank is rusted out and needs to be replaced.
    Link below is a troubleshoot for leaking water heater.
    http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

    Protect yourself first:
    If your tank is rusted, there is danger of rupture.
    My friend welded his leaking tank, but he assumes the risk.
    Ruptured tank can cause massive damage and water runs until it is shut off.

    Hot water tank is under pressure because hot water expands and pushes against tank wall.
    Turn off water to tank.
    Turn off power supply:
    Electric: turn off circuit breaker.
    Gas: rotate knob to pilot so pilot stays lit but burner will not fire. To turn back on, rotate knob to ON.
    Open hot side bathtub valve and relieve pressure on tank.

    You can limp by with rusted tank by turning water heater on when hot water is needed.
    Shower uses 5-9 gallons hot water
    Bath uses 12-15 gallon hot water
    Ordinary gas heater makes 41 gallons hot water per hour
    Ordinary electric heater makes 20 gallons hot water per hour.

    I buy water heaters at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace.
    Look for scratch and dent models.
    Buy drip pan for water heater.
    Wrap electric heater totally with insulation except TP valve.
    Buy new flexible connectors for water lines.
    Offer 15% less than marked price on tank, because the store makes money on additional items.

    > Most people can install their own electric heater since you just connect water pipes and electric wire, and it's done. Read link below since there are tips that help you buy and install electric.
    > Generally people are nervous about installing gas water heater, so step-by-step instructions are shown on link below. Remember gas line is under less pressure than water line, so if you can install a water pipe, you can install gas line to water heater with crescent wrench, and soapy water to check for leaks.
    How to install gas water heater:
    http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

    Add a comment for more free help.
    Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
    For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater, or any do-it-yourself project.

    Jan 13, 2011 | Water Heaters

    2 Answers

    I noticed my water wasn't staying hot long to shower and wash dishes. The water continually runs out of the relief valve to the outside of house. Had to shut-off water to unit and turn off breaker. What...


    Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

    most likely you have a defective relief valve, since you turned off a breaker, i will assume it is electric. water heater.

    Their is a off chance, the the water heater is defective and getting to hot..but the thermal protection should kick in.

    I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question's. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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    Jan 02, 2011 | Water Heaters

    1 Answer

    Just purchaced a 99 jamboree with an atwood G6a-8e water heater. while on a trip I lit the water heater, and after 30 minutes someone told me water was leaking from the side. I noticed the pressure relief...


    It's gas operation only, but has electronic ignition for propane. ( just to confirm, if you look at back of water heater, it would have a metal or black plastic cover and hydro cable going in side or top of it.)
    There are usually 3 things that may cause pressure relief to leak. 1) Faulty,corroded pressure relief valve, which usually needs to be replaced if it goes faulty. 2) water temperature is getting too hot, which could indicate a faulty thermostat. 3) If your hooked up to city water, the pressure may be too high, causing excess pressure build up in hot water tank, thus pressure relief opens. If your running off your on board pump, this is probably not the cause, as they are usually set at 40 psi.
    Ist, - try pulling lever on relief valve slightly open ( careful it's hot !!) to clean out any calcium that may be logged on seal thus causing leak. If that doesn't do it, and the hot water isn't running out steady and appear to be under extreme pressure while leaking, then I'd change the pressure relief valve. Remember when you do, shut off water to system, and relieve pressure by opening a tap, and pressure relief as well after that. New one shouldn't be too expensive, just make sure you get same thread, 1/2"NPT or 3/4"NPT. Use a little teflon tape, or pipe dope whatever you prefer when re-installing as well as clean threads a little before.
    If it really starts gushing out pressure relief when heating or heated, and water seems hotter than normal, it's more than likely a faulty thermostat. I'll wait for your reply on what condition your experiencing before I go in to how to change the thermostat.

    Nov 17, 2010 | RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP

    1 Answer

    The temp./pressure valve on top of the heater is leaking. what is the cause and solution.


    It is possile that it had apressure fluction for various reasons. It's also possible that valve spring is just getting weak. What i would do first is replace T&P valve and see what happens.These are common 3/4 inch male iron pipe t&p valve available at most hardware stores. First shut off water supply to water heater, then open valve on hot water side of nearest faucet to relieve pressure. Remove old valve by turning counterclockwise. You may need a pipe wrench as they can be pretty tight. Remove old t&p valve and use teflon pipe tape or joint compound on new valve threads. Install new valve and tighten securely. Close faucet previously opened to relieve pressure,then turn water supply valve to water heater. Check for leaks and tighten further if needed. Check valve occasionally for next couple days. If no further leaks from valve then your're in business. Hope this helps. Thanks

    Nov 11, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

    1 Answer

    We have a reliance 606 50 gallon electric water heater. recently we noticed it has an internal leak. I removed the top and removed some of the insulation. the pipe fittings are dry but when you put water...


    I wrote a page on leaking water heaters.
    With a checklist.
    It sounds like you've done quite a bit already.
    The element can leak around the gasket.
    The TP valve can leak where it screws into side of tank.
    Otherwise a leak on side of tank sounds like the tank is rusted through and needs to be replaced.
    http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html

    You should turn off electricity and water to the tank, and open tub valve on hot side to relieve pressure so the tank will not rupture.
    Then you can limp along with a failed water heater by turning the water and electricity on only when hot water is needed.
    This will buy you time until a new heater is installed.
    A typical electric water heater produces 21 gallons of hot water per hour.
    A shower uses 6-9 gallon of hot water, so heater only needs to be turned on 20-30 minutes for a shower, more if the incoming water is very cold.

    To economize with your next heater, you might read the following two pages:
    http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html
    http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

    Nov 08, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

    1 Answer

    After connecting a drain line to the pressure relief valve of my MR85245 water heater, I now have water leaking badly out of the heating element door.


    Turn off the electricity.
    Turn off the water valve going into tank.
    Open a bathtub spout to let hot water pressure off the tank.
    Check top of tank for any leaks.
    Open the top access panel and see if element is leaking.
    Open bottom access panel and see if lower element is leaking.
    The reduced pressure on the tank will slow the leak.

    If element is the problem, you can squeak by for a while by turning on the hot water heater only when you need hot water.
    Order the 'Marathon MR85245 replacement element' online
    http://www.gpconservation.com/rheem/marathon-sp213670-titanium-4500w-lower-element
    These elements may be available locally, but they are not the same as 'ordinary' tank-type electric heater elements that you buy at the hardware store.
    Buy more than 1 element because the Marathon elements have problems.
    One of the reported problems with marathon elements is the high price of stainless steel replacement elements.
    Drain tank.
    Replace element.

    Another resource for water heater information is:
    http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

    Nov 04, 2010 | Water Heater Innovations MR85245 High...

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