Question about Plumbing
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There will be a nailing flange on the walls of your shower. Typically, drywall screws are used on this flange on the top portion and along outside edges spaced 6-8" apart. Use a high quality tub/shower caulk down the seams.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
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Posted on Apr 23, 2010
SOURCE: i bought a maax shower
There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.
Posted on Jan 30, 2011
SOURCE: Some years ago I purchased
Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.
1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.
2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.
3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.
4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).
If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.
These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.
Posted on Mar 25, 2011
Testimonial: "This provides some new ideas for me to try. Your solution requires that I remove existing subfloor and re support the wooden floor. NOCANDO. but thank"
SOURCE: Trying to install a Maxx
Hello. You're not going to believe this, but MAXX says that the drain and the wall pannels (glued) will keep it in place if the floor is properly leveled before. Personally, when I installed mine (model 105525 - exactly the same installation instructions) I used silicone on the base at each stud area. it's secure, but not permanent, and won't allow an area for a crack to form.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 26, 2011
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