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Kenmore model 911.3042993 troublesooting

Uneven heating, and unit shuts off with f3 code

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  • Kenmore Master
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Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Model JTP15 oven shows F3 error code

I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken

Posted on Sep 24, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: F3 and F2 Error Codes

If hitting clear/cancel won't clear it try unplugging and then plug it back in. My guess is the oven control is bad. Here are the fault codes for this model.

Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair F0 or F1 Failed transistor in control If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit F3 Open oven temperature sensor circuit Measure oven temperature sensor circuit at oven temperature sensor (should be approx 1100 ohms at room temp); check for cut or pinched wire or loss of contact F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit Same as above; check for melted connector or both leads shorted to ground F8 Component failure within Electronic Range Control (ERC) effecting temp processing circuits Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F9 Problem with door lock circuit such as pinched wire between Electronic Range Control (ERC) and door lock switch Check wiring and test operation of switch

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Model 665 95781000 Stove Displays a EO-F3

F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven, if double oven) Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore wall oven keeps showing error codes f5 and f3

oven went into E2 F3 oven code while cooking a chicken and broil burner came on turned off oven but broil burner stayed lit, then had to unplug

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have a kenmore oven number PLT059-2 that will

how do ignite my oven kenmore plt0592

Posted on Aug 30, 2011

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Kenmore stove model# 665.92024100 While cooking


Check and see if the broil element has shorted to ground.

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Model # c970-47821-3 shuts off when it heats up and displays F2 or F3?


F2-F3 is a bad temperature sensor.
Unplug the range. Open the oven door.Remove the racks. Look up high on the back wall of the oven to locate the temperature sensor. It is metal and about 4 inches long and thin.Remove the 1 or 2 screws holding it in. Pull it out of the hole carefully. Unplug it. Install a new sensor.

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All F3-E Codes - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question@#$5

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F3 and flashing on Kenmore oven


HI. this is a basic temp sensor issue. the oven control is programmed to cease operations if it dose not receive any resistance signals for the temp sensor during high heat situations.

Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.

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Code F3


F3 means that there is a faulty oven sensor. You will need to replace the sensor before the machine will work properly again. You may get a chance to unplug it for 30 minutes and plug it back in and it might work. You can either order the part online at kenmore.com or at a local appliance repair store in your town.

Apr 09, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

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Shuts off when preheating with F3 or F6 error


The F3 error on this model is an open thermostat circuit. The F6 is a control or loss of power. Make sure the unit is plugged into a good 120 Volt outlet. Test this outlet with a power drill or lamp, wiggle cord in receptacle, if no other test experience or equipment is avaliable. Check the thermostate in the oven for physical damage. There may be a loose connection in the oven. This would require a good technican to find.
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F2 and F3 code appearing along with annoying beeping


i think f3 error code has something to do with the temp probe maybe it is the problem. the temp probe is located if you open the door directly in the back wall. it looks like a prong. should read 1100ohms the f2 error code though usually has something to do with the keypad i would check all the connections maybe they are loose.

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