Question about Microwave Ovens
Powers on, timers work, but it just clicks when you start it and will not heat anything. Checked plug, circuit box, still no luck
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely causes are a bad door switch, a loose connector on the magnetron, or a bad magnetron. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk Here's a reprint of one of our FAQS on the subject: Q. My microwave seems to be running okay, but it won't heat. A. If you are a do-it-yourselfer with the right equipment and care, you can do quite a bit of troubleshooting, but once you get near the high voltage section, it is time to be VERY sure of your actions. DANGER: Microwaves produce lethal voltages. They can kill. Before you go any further, you should read the safety warnings here: http://188.8.131.52/mwd/safety.txt If you find line voltage (100-125 VAC) on the primary of the high-voltage transformer while the oven is running, the problem is indeed in the high voltage section. If that line voltage is not present, then the problem is not in the high voltage section. Door switches would be one suspect, as well as a control panel problem. To check door swithces, see this file: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt If you have or suspect control panel problems, see details of the repair service here: http://184.108.40.206/mwd/index.htm There are a few prime suspects to be aware of in the high-voltage section, mainly the high-voltage rectifier diode, the magnetron, and the high-voltage transformer. DIODE: Did the oven pop during the cooking cycle? If so, that's pretty good evidence that the diode has gone bad, not that's not the only way it can fail. High-voltage rectifier ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html MAGNETRON: Sometimes everything looks and seems okay, but the magnetron is simply not producing heat. At other times, it may be arcing inside, and producing a noise that sounds something like someone growling into a coffee mug. It's also possible that the mag may have a cracked magnet. Check for that, too. More likely, it may be that the magnetron filament connectors have loosened (they should be snug) and, due to resistive heat, the terminal connections have deteriorated and burned loose to some degree. A photo showing that area can be found here: http://220.127.116.11/mwd/magterm.jpg . Here are some tips if you have loose connections: If the connectors feel loose, and any burning or melting seems minor, you should be able to carefully tighten the connectors with a pair of pliers, then sand or file the rusty-looking terminals of the magnetron until they are clean and shiny. If the burning is more serious, the connectors may need to be replaced. They can be obtained from home improvement centers and auto parts stores. They are 1/4" connectors and can be squeezed in place onto stripped wire with proper crimpers or a pair of pliers. Another option is to cut the connectors off the wires and solder the wires directly to the magnetron terminals. If this is done, do not apply heat to the terminals any longer than necessary. If the burning is really bad, the plastic surrounding the magnetron terminals is charred or melted, the magnetron may need to be replaced. HIGH-VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER: When the voltage transformer fails, it will often emit heat and smoke, but with the fan running, you might not smell it. With the cover off, it may be easier to smell. Also, you can look at the windings and see if they look discolored due to heat. If a high-voltage transformer is shorting, it can blow the fuse a few seconds after pressing the start button to start a cooking cycle. High-voltage transformer ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html HIGH-VOLTAGE CAPACITOR: The high-voltage capacitor will usually fail by shorting. When it does, the fuse will be blown right after you press the start button to begin a cooking cycle. If the capacitor is old and dries out, then it can fail by just not allowing the high-voltage to be doubled. I don't remember having ever seen this condition. High-voltage capacitor ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html More information on the high-voltage circuit can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/doubler.html Again, be safe!
Posted on Feb 25, 2007
SOURCE: GEJE2160 Stop Working
It probably blew the main power fuse in side the oven. This may have happen because of a failure in the microwave or a line voltage surge or what ever. Repalce the fuse and see if it work. be sure to unplug it before doing this, If this does not fix it then you have a failure in the oven some were.
Posted on May 17, 2008
All the parts you mention are very inexpensive, but yours does not have a triac.
It could be the cook relay, but it's more likely to be a switch.
Looking at the schematic, it's probably a bad primary interlock (upper door switch) or maybe its mount is bad.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If you have a broken mount, it's usually more economical and safer to just add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
Here are some helpful links:
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or elsewhere, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 31, 2011 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens
Jun 09, 2011 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens
Apr 27, 2011 | Kenmore 63792 Microwave Oven
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....
Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips
Dec 26, 2010 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens
May 25, 2010 | Kenmore 63662 / 63664 / 63669 Microwave...
Feb 27, 2010 | Kenmore 63672 Convection/Microwave Oven
May 23, 2009 | Kenmore 63792 Microwave Oven
Nov 21, 2008 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens
Mar 16, 2008 | Microwave Ovens
Dec 16, 2017 | In Microwave Ovens
11 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!