Question about Baumatic Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Stuck Microwave door
The button assembly or the arm thats attached to the push button is broken. With the unit unplugged. Carfully take off the screws from the sides and around the back of the unit around the outside of the cover. Now once apart, DO NOT TOUCH any electrical parts. Look at the mechanism and see if you can see why the buttons not activating an arm to trigger the door latch. If you think you see why, Go to http://www.repairclinic.com and enter your model #.. Answer the questions and then a bunch of parts will come up. If they dont then get the tele # from there and call them. Depending on how old the oven is, you may want to consider a newer oven??. Good luck
Posted on Jul 30, 2006
Usually this is due to loosened mounts inside the oven. The mounts hold the door switches and grab the door hooks when it the door is closed. The solution is to realign and tighten the mount screws inside. It's less liekly, but it could be a weak or worn door open lever inside. I only advise people to work on a microwave if they're fully informed and aware of the deadly hazards and necessary precautions.
Posted on Sep 15, 2006
SOURCE: Stuck Microwave door
In most cases this is due to a broken door opening lever or loose or broken door latch / hook parts. They can only be accessed and examined if the cover is removed from the microwave. In many over the range models, you can access the door parts by removing the control panel assembly. Sometimes you may be able to get it open by pushing up gently on the bottom of the door while pushing the button, in case you need to empty it.
Posted on Nov 02, 2006
VK, most likely the switch body has become loose and it's out of adjustment. Unfortunately, to gain access to it, you'll have to remove the MW from the cabinet, set it on a suitable work area and disassemble it. Before doing anything like this, please read the following link carefully and ask yourself if you're up to it... http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html Remove the trim then remove the screws holding the MW. Pull the MW out and rotate slightly to see where it's plugged in and unplug it. Then pull it all the way out. Remove all the aluminum trim from the MW and all the screws holding the cabinet. To remove the cabinet, stand behind the MW and grasp both sides... pull back and up at the same time. Set aside. NOW!!! DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE LINK ABOVE!!! OK, up by the control panel, you'll see the latch/lock assy. (it has 3 brown switches mounted to it). It's held in place by 2 screws, the lower screw is the one you'll be working on. Adjust this by opening and closing the door and watch the action on how it works and make your adjustments as needed. Now, you'll need to test it before reinstalling. Plug it in, BUT DON'T TOUCH ANY WIRING! Now give it a try. If you need to make another adjustment, DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AGAIN BEFORE DOING SO!!! Do this every time you plug and unplug! Continue adjusting 'til you get it. Now, there's a chance that one of those switches is about to go bad and the mounting bracket is fine. In this case, those switches are generic... not GE specific. Remove the wiring from the switches and make notes on their respective locations. Remove the switches from the bracket (starting from the top) and label them 1, 2 and 3. Take these to your local appliance parts store and ask for generic replacements, they are cheap... about 5 bucks each. Then replace them in the same order you removed them. And re-test. This will get you fixed, but please be careful working on Microwave ovens. They are dangerous!
Posted on Sep 27, 2007
It's usually a broken tab on the upper switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate
just out of position.
This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
While replacing the switch holder is the preferred solution, using hot glue to secure the switch to the holder is much easier and quicker. Just be sure not to let the door be slammed from now on.
We have the R1480 service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you. You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 17, 2015 | Rival Microwave Ovens
Aug 28, 2014 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens
A door switch is a simple on/off
mechanism that prohibits the microwave from operating when the door is
open. Microwave door switches are only an inch long. Most are black in
color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from
the body of the switch. Microwave door switches are normally mounted to a
bracket near the door latch. Also, microwaves usually have three or
four door switches.
There is a latch (sometimes referred to
as a hook) attached to the inside of your microwave door that comes in
contact with and activates the door switch when the door is closed.
Examine this prong first. You may not be experiencing any problems with
your door switch. Perhaps the latch on the inside of your microwave door
is missing or damaged, leaving it unable to activate the door switch.
Some door switches have only two metal
prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with
three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed
(N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches
with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a
normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed
terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with
three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two
terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you.
Using caution, remove all wiring
harness leads from the switch's terminals. Be aware that some door
switches may have a locking clip keeping the harness from coming loose.
In this case, there is a protruding lever which must be depressed while
the harness is gently pulled away from the terminal.
Use your ohmmeter to test your switch
for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a
scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of
the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the
thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the
Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is presen
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