Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dishmachine won't fill
Your problem is as straightforward as your observation, the unit is not getting enough water flow.
First, if your DW water is hooked up with a braided stainless hose, there is usually a screen in the end of it, (check both ends). It gets clogged with debris and chokes off the water. Make sure the line is not kinked.
If that doesn't work, you are likely having trouble with your fill valve. It is under the front kick panel. It has a large castle like upper cap. It is common for debris in the water to make this valve malfunction. It isn't too difficult to open up without removing. Just watch how it is assembled. If you pay attention, it's easy. If you have a booster, the hoses are very brittle with age.
And otherwise, the fill valve may be bad. REMEMBER, verify your supply water flow where it connects to the machine first. Don't assume. You could have a pressure regulator or a line strainer that is part of your supply line. They do fail. But that's a plumber's fix, not a technician.
Posted on Jun 21, 2008
SOURCE: hobart lx30 E3 error
Error Code E3 relates to a problem with the fill. Specifically that the water level has not been recognized at the middle water sensor. This can be caused by a problem with the drain system as you describe, or by low water pressure to the machine (should be 15-25psi flow), or bad wire connection to this middle sensor.
Check for proper water pressure first (should be a gauge on the machine) during the fill. Then check / repair drain as needed. These will probably eliminate the problem
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
SOURCE: P1 error code on LX30 Hobart
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.
This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.
Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Testimonial: "You were right! can you help mr with a P2 error code?"
Tips for a great answer:
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