I have had this amp for 5 years...its been flawless. However recently I lost one channel. I verified it wasnt a speaker by switching speakers wires on the amp to the good channel. I checked the 2 fuses on the amp...they are good. Do you have a wiring diagram before I tear into this..Im guessing one of the power amps ( internally) has had it. I am electronics savvy and have repaired things like before. I just like some insight from someone else, if youve already attempted this repair and if the parts are available.
Also I paid $300 for the amp and the 10 inch dual sub box...should I just call it done and get another amp at this point. Its been in my car and running for 225,000 miles...and its had A LOT of heat cycles.
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It sounds like a component failure inside the amp. When it gets hot, the component fails. Repairing this type of failure requires skill and experience. I'd seek the help of a professional who can actually look at the amp.
USE THE PROCESS OF ELIMINATION. SWITCH THE RCA INPUTS AROUND AND IF THE PROBLEM STAYS IN THE SAME CHANNEL, THEN THE AMPLFIER OR SPEAKER IS AT FAULT. IF THE PROBLEM SWITCHES TO THE OTHER SPEAKER, THEN THE PROBLEM IS THE RCA CABLE OR RADIO ITSELF. YOU CAN VERIFY YOUR FINDINGS BY STARTING WITH THE SPEAKERS FIRST. SWAP THE SPEAKERS AROUND AND IF THE PROBLEM STAYS ON THE SAME SPEAKER, THEN THE SPEAKER IS AT FAULT. IF THE PROBLEMS SWITCHES TO THE OTHER SPEAKER, THEN THE AMPLIFIER OR INPUTS ARE TO BLAME. BY FOLLOWING THESE TWO METHODS, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DETERMINE EXACTLY WHICH COMPONENTS ARE AT FAULT. REMEMBER, YOU HAVE AN INPUT, AN AMPLIFIER AND A SPEAKER. THIS PROCESS OF ELIMINATION WILL HELP YOU IN THE FUTURE WITH MANY TYPES OF PROBLEMS. LET ME KNOW IF YOU REQUIRE FURTHER ASSISTANCE. I AM LISTED IN THE REPAIR LISTINGS ON THIS WEBSITE......V PS: MAKE SURE THAT THE GAINS AND BOOST CONTROLS ARE SET TO THE SAME LEVEL FOR BOTH CHANNELS BEING TESTED. ALSO MAKE SURE THAT THE BALANCE CONTROL ON THE RADIO IS STILL SET TO THE MIDDLE. DON'T WANT THESE CURVEBALLS INTERFERING WITH YOUR TROUBLESHOOTING......V
remove all speaker connections to your amp. MAke sure the inputs are driving all 4 channels, and that the built in crossovers on the amp are all set to full range. Conect your full range speaker to each output channel one at a time and verify there is oputput on all 4 channels. If all is ok, then connect your rear speakers to the front(a) outputs of your 4 channel amp, and then use the second 2 channels (rear or B) bridged to drive the sub. Re-configure the crossovers for highpass for front (to drive your rear speakers) and lowpass for sub. This is the proper way to connect a 4 channel amp with a sup whle driving 2 full range speakers.
yes, you have a few options. Chances are, its your amp.
1st I would test the speakers - find the amp under the back seat, then test which wires go to the front speakers and use a AA battery to check if the speaker pops with those two wires and the battery.
If it does pop, its your amp needing replaced. You can switch out that infinity amp for an aftermarket one very easy. Just use a testlight, or voltmeter to test the wires, and switch them to a new 4-channel amp.
if you need the wiring diagram, let me know...and dont forget to rate me! or ask for more help!
The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).
If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.
It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.
If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.
These are very complex amps that mainly use surface mount components. This amp has 4 vertical boards for the individual channels. It's difficult to work between boards and it's easy to damage the main board if you don't have good quality equipment to desolder them. If you want to learn to repair audio equipment, this is not a good starter amp. I'd suggest sending it to JL or a reputable local shop.
If you're lucky, it could simply be a case of a dirty contact on a switch or a switch that's not set correctly. Try moving all of the controls and switches before sending it off for service.