Question about Frigidaire Washing Machines
The little triangle things on the inside of the washer tub are disconnecting and flapping around during the cycle. Is there a way to reconnect them?
THEY DONT NORMALLY COME LOOSE AND WHEN THEY DO LOSE THEIR TEETH THEY FAIL TO ENGAGE THE AGITATOR. THEY HAVE A PLASTIC PC LIKE A WASHER THAT HOLDS THEM ALL IN THE AGITATOR, IF IT CORRODES AND BREAKS UP U MAY HAVE WHAT UR HAVING
Posted on Apr 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ours started knocking several months ago and then progressed to a high pitched sound when in the spin cycle. I manually turned the drum and heard and felt a bearing roughness. I lifted the drum assembly and felt a fair amount of play, which I think the initial knocking noise came from. On the sears web site a new rear drum mount cost 293.00. Today we went and bought a LG model wm2455hw at Home depot, on sale until 2/20/08. I couldn't see paying to repair a machine that only lasted four years.
Posted on Feb 17, 2008
Looks like the bearings may have failed. TURN OFF the POWER and try and rotate the agitator/tub by hand. If it is jammed you should investigate why. Possibly caused by bearing failure or something wound around spindle.
Take care and do not attempt to investigate the problem without first disconnecting from the mains!
Posted on Apr 16, 2008
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
If the washer won't finish a spin cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.
Posted on Sep 21, 2008
there are springs under the machine that attatch to the tub in 3 to 4 places if one of these springs break it will cause the tub to bang.
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
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