Question about Refrigerators
Other tines he fan runs but the compressor does not kick in at all
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Chesapeake, given your symptoms you'll be looking at installing a new Selector Switch. But, before you go there... UNPLUG THE UNIT OR SHUT OFF THE BREAKER!!! Your selector switch does two things at a time, It energizes the fan motor (which it IS doing) and energizes the compressor at the same time. The voltage to your compressor goes from the wall into the selector, out of the selector, through the temp control then to the compressor. When the temp control is satisfied, it interrupts power to the compressor. The click you hear is the temp control being NOT satisfied and trying to send power to the comp. But if there is "no power" to send (i.e., the selector switch has failed)the compressor won't know to engage. Remove the front panel and filter. Remove the control box housing. Remove the knobs from the controls. You will now see the selector switch. Remove the 2 screws that fasten it (don't remove the wire yet!) and install the new switch. Then, one wire at a time, remove the wires from the old switch and install them on the new one. ***If you have an OHM meter, check the temp control before ordering a selector because this may be the problem and NOT the selector! To do this... remove the 2 wires from the temp control, set the control to "coldest". Then with your meter, test OHM's between the terminals. If you see "zero" OHM's, it's good. If you see no change in your meter, it's bad and THIS is the source of your problem. If you don't have a meter... you can test using this procedure... cut a 6" length of wire and strip the ends to about 3/8", twist the copper ends tightly. Remove both wires from the temp control, then insert one end of your jumper wire into one terminal and the other end into the other terminal. Make sure the "jumpered" wires are away from anything metal!!! And plug the unit back in. Now turn the unit on. If the unit fires up? It's the temp control, If not? it's the selector switch. Here's a link for parts...http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp
Posted on Aug 09, 2007
SOURCE: fridge not cooling
Most of the time on a whirlpool the problem is the relay on the compressor sometimes called the start device. I would replace that first. If you need help finding the part let me know. I will need the complete model # from the sticker inside the fridge section. You can look it up with diagrams at http://www3.sears.com/.
Posted on Nov 09, 2007
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Make sure that your condenser fan is working. If your unit is water cooled make sure you have water flow.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
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