Value of a transistor at the amplifier sction

There is a heat sensor on the heatsink (to cooling IC / transistor) which decides current / voltage, in case of overheating. This is indeed to secure IC / transistor power of destruction.
The cause of the excessive heat, the impedance mismatch between the amp to the speakers. It is also possible that parts already exist within the amplifier that is almost / half broken, for example, changing the resistor value, electrolytic capacitors are bulging or dried, isolation transformer windings were charred, solder joint cracking etc. Should be checked, before the fatal damage.

Heatsink on the amplifier (the picture is owned Connelectronic):

You will need the schematic diagram

pls check burnt resistors, if ceramic it's value is .25 0hms 5 watts, if big carbon film resistor it's value is 10 ohms 3 watts. check also power transistors A1941 & C5198. also check driver transistor A940 & C2073

I had the same problem with my amplifier before. If your an electronics enthusiast and knows how to use a multimeter you will find that the amplifier for the right side has its main Transistors a leaking reading (meaning if you compare it with the Transistor on the working side of the amplifier it gives a diiferent reading value on a multimeter). If you do not actually have an electronic know-how replacing all the main transistors (the biggest on the PCB) would fix it.

Hi, quiescent current is set with a diode string located far away from the output transistor high miller compensation cap values used, quasi-complementary (of course), lots of non-linear, single-transistor gain stages here and there.
That's all i can remember about it...
Take care

The driver circuits should be just before the outputs in the circuitry. The easiest way to check this circuit is to remove the outputs and turn on the unit. Measure each of the transistor pads relativce to ground for DC voltage. You should see the following: B+,0.6V (or 1.1V), and 0V on one transistor and negative values on its compliment. If you have questions, measure the pads and post the measurements here. In some cases the output transistor needs to be in place to get the values above, so if yours don't measure that way, just post what you get and we'll continue from there.

Dan

the ones directly across from the burnt ones is the same value

You need the old transistor. Knowing it's brown is not enough; you need to know its resistance value. It sounds like the resistor you replaced with has too low a resistance value, causing the "cuts" in sound. Find the old resistor and then use this site to find out what you need:

http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm

In a CRT type monitor/TV the push-pull transistors are used in the vertical output section to provide both poistive and negitive signal amplification. By using a NPN and PNP transistor set you can amplifiy a signal that goes positive and negitive. A NPN uses the positive portion of the input signal and then amplifies that signal (pushing it to a higher positive signal level)(PUSH). The negative portion of that same signal to sent to a PNP transistor to amplify the negative to a more negative value PULLing the signal lower/more negative). The out puts of both transistors are combined providing a PUSH-PULL transistor set.
Now days the use a chip with all the transistors and a lot of the associated components inside. The LCD I worked on used FET's N-type and P-type (negative and positive).
I hope this helps.

Look for low valued resistors that may look ok, but be open. Check the emitter resistors (.22 or .47 ohms). Check the transistors in the driver circuit as well.
Dan