Question about Maytag Refrigerators

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Maytag mbf 2262 hef

Coils were very dirty, both refrigerator and freezer tem-perature increased. We shut unit off, cleaned coils. Unit runs but neither refrigerator or freezer get colder; they stay room temperature

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator won't get colder than 45 degrees/ Freezer side is working fine

the fridge thermostat is not a true thermostat it controls a damper door the freezer thermostat runs the compressor in order for your refrigerators to reach the proper temp the freezer should be about -8 to-10 set your freezer thermostat lower and see if it gets lower .at the mid point setting it should be about -8 not 6 you may have a problem with its thermostat or a leak in your system reply to me tomorrow and tell me if lowering the freezer thermostat help we want it about -8or-10 and the best way to check your refrigerator temp is put a glass of water in it and stick your thermometer in it and if need be you can e mail me at b4829@yahoo.com just referance your promblem

Posted on Jun 03, 2008

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Top of freezer not freezing and refrigerator not

Dirty coils not likely the problem .
Open the freezer door .( Behind the back panel ( inside the freezer ) is the evaporator fan motor . ) Push in on the freezer door switch , and listen for the fan to come on . Sometimes , the fan will stay on , even if the door is open . Do you hear the fan ? If not , then the main control board , behind the refrig , behind an 8 " X 10 " panel , is probably bad . If you do hear the fan , then you are having a defrost problem . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel .
Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , and , when to cycle off , due to set temperature reached .

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

Testimonial: "Detail very informative Thanks"

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works, refrigerator is not cooling

Sounds like a defrost problem.

Posted on Jun 25, 2010

diodeic
  • 1622 Answers

SOURCE: top mount freezer works great,

Hi,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Take care....

Posted on Jun 28, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Maytag refrigerator is not

I had the same problem and had to change the control board, the technician showed me how to defrost manually to keep the fridge cold until he could get the new control board and change it.


Open the refrigerator door push in the light button to turn off the light inside the fridge at the top (keep it pushed in) then push the left button of the refrigerator temperature setting 3 times and let go of the light button the letter "d" will be displayed. Push the left button one more time number "5" will be displayed, push the left button a third time and you will hear noises this should start the defrost process. Wait a while then open the freezer and check the coils on the back wall of the freezer, the ice should have melted. Wait a couple of hours and your fridge should start getting cold again.

Posted on Jul 10, 2011

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Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.


If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.


If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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