Question about Water Heaters
I have a Kenmore Power Miser 9 Electric 240 voltage Water tank. I have been having issues with running out of warm/hot water in seconds. My boyfriends an electrician and checked the heating elements and reset it. A question is, this situation I'm going to explain normal. He checked the heating elements and the top element has 240 volts between both wires and when he checked the bottom element when he measured voltage measuring both wires together showed nothing, but when he measures each wire seperately it comes up as 120 volts each wire. Is this normal?
Posted by Anonymous on
Top element fried unless temp was met at time of test
Posted on Apr 29, 2017
An electric water heater contains two elements (usually upper and lower). Normally hot water is maintained at a certain temperature to assure an immediate supply. When hot water is turned on at the fixture, the second element is turned on to boost the temperature. From your description one of the heating elements may be defective or set to incorrect temperature.
Posted on Apr 29, 2017
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Immediately turn off power to heater. One of two things has happened. Either: A. The electrical contacts in one of the thermostats has welded together, necessitating replacement of the thermostat(s). (in this case I would recommend replacing both upper and lower thermos) or B. The lower element has burnt through, and because there is 120 volts to the lower element at all times (it normally only heats when the thermos complete the circuit to give it a path to the other "hot", putting a full 240 volts on it) a section of the element will continue to heat up to the point where the break allows the current to complete it's path to neutral ground via the water in the tank. It can continue to heat until the high limit safety thermo trips out. (the red reset button on the upper thermostat)
If either condition exists, the high limit safety thermo should trip out power to the heater before boiling water, and thus steam, is produced. Even if the safety thermo should fail to cut power, the pressure / temperature relief valve should open, releasing excessive pressure. If that should also fail to open, due to corrosion or such, the water heater will create steam and can actually result in explosion, and possible injury or death!
Several years ago I came across one that was boiling and when I turned on a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure it filled the entire basement with steam. (I still shutter to think if I didn't catch that fast enough I or someone else could have been killed)
The most likely cause of your extra hot water is actually the lower element. After you turn off power to the heater, turn off the water supply to the heater, open a hot water faucet to allow air to enter the tank and drain the tank. Remove the lower element. A bad element is usually visually apparent. If it looks good, you would have to test it with an ohm meter. (should be about 20 ohms if it is good) Install new element, turn on water and fill until water flows steadily from the hot water faucet you left open. Now you can turn the faucet off and turn power back on to heater.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
If you don't have current, 0v from terminal to terminal, then you don't have voltage to the elements. Replace the thermostat but check that you have 220v to the thermostat. It is possible that your breakers to the unit are either bad or tripped.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: Elec dryer, no heat case
check your center NEUTRAL connection to the element,sounds like your losing it somewhere,certain units rely on the neutral to operate the element on certain cycles to dry, the neutral carries the imbalance current load and the wire gets hot and will get brittle and break
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
Testimonial: "Great advice "
Willard when you say it throws the reset button,do you mean the breaker on your fuse box of your home?
If you mean that then yes it could be a bad element.The bottom element takes all the abuse on a electric hot water heater. They can short out,and need to be replaced.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 09, 2014 | Water Heaters
Oct 31, 2013 | Water Heaters
Oct 30, 2013 | Rheem RTE 27 Tankless Electric Water...
Apr 07, 2013 | Water Heaters
Jan 09, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...
Dec 10, 2010 | Rheem Water Heaters
Nov 04, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...
Jul 31, 2009 | Water Heaters
Apr 05, 2009 | Element Chromalox SG1353-430326 Electric...
Feb 02, 2009 | Intermatic WH40 - Water Heater Time Switch...
44 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!