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How do I repalace a door seal on the Kenmore refrigerator?

Just looking for how to advice to replace THE GASKT ON THE DOUBLE DOOR BOTTOM FREEZER FRIDGE

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Remove the door makes the job easier. Using a table lay the door with door seal in the upright position. Pinch and pull the door seal over to one side to expose the door seal screws. Remove screws and gasket/ seal and install the new door seal in the reverse order.

Posted on Feb 08, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 327 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 596.73502201 Not cooling. Compressor , fan, seal ok

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Amana ARB2117BW - Bottom Freezer Door Won't Stay Sealed

This problem was posted in the wrong section. My model didn't have it's own, so its in ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - perhaps you could create a section for it.

As it turns out, I looked more closely at the baskets inside. We had noticed that if the top basket was slid all the way forward when we closed the door that it would close better. So I looked to see if they or the slides were out of alignment. They seemed ok, but then I saw that the way the bottom basket was hanging didn't seem right - it was not quite nestled into it's retainer slot. I took the baskets out and turned the bottom one around. It fit perfectly into it's retainer slot. I then replaced the top one (it was already in correctly) and closed the door. It sealed correctly the first time. I tested it several times after that and it sealed tightly. Closing the top door did not make it unseal as it had done before.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge/freezer beeping

There is a lever switch usually above the door (when door is in open position) on the fridge cabinet. Not on the actual door. The beeping should stop if this lever is pressed. If the door is positioned correctly it would depress this lever when closed. It may be that the door adjustment is slightly out. If the beeping does not stop when depressed, then your printed circuit board (located usually above the door) is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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. Using a good light , flashlight , etc. check your refrigerator and freezer door seals . This is the gasket that seals the door shut when closed . Look for cracks, tears, and possibly bumps in the gasket material. If you notice any of these , replace the door seal gasket . Furthermore , it is always best to replace both door gaskets at same time .

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If you want a part number for the replacement door gasket please provide a complete model number here so I can give that to you or you can look it up yourself at www.searsdirect.com You must have your model number. (sample 110.XXXXX etc)

The magnet is inside the door seal itself. If the seal is damaged replacement is your only option.

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This is usually due to an air leak at the freezer door/drawer. Check out the gasket and if it is bad, out of place replace it. If the gasket looks good go around the door with a dollar bill closing the bill in the door. The dollar bill should resist being pulled out. If you find spots where the bill slips out easily this is a spot where the door/drawer is not sealing good and letting in air causing the frosting.

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The freezer will stay cold because a small amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt. Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.

First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.

If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.

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