Question about Refrigerators
Just looking for how to advice to replace THE GASKT ON THE DOUBLE DOOR BOTTOM FREEZER FRIDGE
Remove the door makes the job easier. Using a table lay the door with door seal in the upright position. Pinch and pull the door seal over to one side to expose the door seal screws. Remove screws and gasket/ seal and install the new door seal in the reverse order.
Posted on Feb 08, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
This problem was posted in the wrong section. My model didn't have it's own, so its in ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - perhaps you could create a section for it.
As it turns out, I looked more closely at the baskets inside. We had noticed that if the top basket was slid all the way forward when we closed the door that it would close better. So I looked to see if they or the slides were out of alignment. They seemed ok, but then I saw that the way the bottom basket was hanging didn't seem right - it was not quite nestled into it's retainer slot. I took the baskets out and turned the bottom one around. It fit perfectly into it's retainer slot. I then replaced the top one (it was already in correctly) and closed the door. It sealed correctly the first time. I tested it several times after that and it sealed tightly. Closing the top door did not make it unseal as it had done before.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
SOURCE: Fridge/freezer beeping
There is a lever switch usually above the door (when door is in open position) on the fridge cabinet. Not on the actual door. The beeping should stop if this lever is pressed. If the door is positioned correctly it would depress this lever when closed. It may be that the door adjustment is slightly out. If the beeping does not stop when depressed, then your printed circuit board (located usually above the door) is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 05, 2011 | Kenmore Elite 78722 78729 Bottom Freezer...
May 11, 2011 | Kenmore 72282 / 72284 / 72289 Bottom...
Apr 29, 2011 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...
Feb 19, 2011 | Refrigerators
Feb 18, 2010 | Refrigerators
Jul 09, 2009 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...
Apr 29, 2009 | Kenmore 24.8 cu. ft. Trio French Door...
Jan 06, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...
Aug 20, 2017 | Westinghouse Refrigerators
141 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!