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Westpoint manuals Two door westpoint fridge, self defrosting. The cooling system is not working correctly - freezer compartment is over freezing, fridge compartment is not working at all. What can I do to fix it

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: No light in fridge compartment, Not freezing. Light in freezer co

Your door switch is bad.  When doors are opened, the fan stops.  No cooling.  When it closes, fan starts.  Bulb is just an indicator of no power to unit...probably burned out contact in switch.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: FRIDGE COMPARTMENT FREEZING

try this,make sure you dont have anything blocking your blower in the freezer.if that is okay if you have seperate controls for the freezer and the fridge,try setting the frige setting lower and the freezer higher,this makes the blower work more in the freezer.hope it helps.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: Ge Profile Top freezer-not cooling/not freezing

Evaporator fan motor inside the freezer is working? Any frost on the freezer back wall?

This is the fan inside the freezer section, it will circulate the cold air around in the freezer and blow the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, it also sucks the warm air from the fresh food section back into the freezer to be re-cooled.

Hot condensor coils ( under the refrigerator ) been cleaned recently?

**GSS25LGMA**

That is part of a full model#.

00082692.jpgEvaporator fan motor

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

SOURCE: fridge not staying cool, freezer still freezing

The defrost thermostat on the defrost heater is probably bad, it's a good place too start.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

breddi2
  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Coils freeze up,refridgerator and freezer stops working

The defrost cycle is not working properly, there are three things involved in system. #1 Defrost timer in refrigerator #2 Thermostat on coils to tell if unit is frozen #3 heater element located under coils thaws coils when frozen. the defrost timer if it is manual < located at the front of light assembly panel in top of refrigerator there will be a hole with a plastic piece that resembles a screw strait screw head> it turns and every 8hrs aprox. it stops operations and starts defrost cycle by allowing voltage to the thermostat and if thermostat is frozen it allows power to element for thawing coils. If defrost timer is manual look for direction it is facing and mark edge to see if timer is turning< very slow turning and is easiest way> if you can get an ohm meter ohm the element on high setting< if it has continuity element is operable> check wiring just to be sure not problem. If you find the timer does turn and doesn't stay in one position over 40 minutes then the thermostat is bad.If element fails tesing then the element is bad and if timer stays in one position then it is bad. If unit is equiped with electronic defrost timer and element is good in would replace timer and thermostat to guaranty that resolved problem

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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Can you tell me why please?


All the big cooling happens inside freezer compartment. Freezer gives little cool air to fridge compartment. Now when the vent blocks that little cold air cannot go into fridge compartment. Thus your freezer works good but not fridge compartment. Milk goes bad but frozen meet keeps good.....

Vent freeze up either due to defrost problemt, defrost drain line problem, Evaporator fan problem or even can be your damper motor not opening due to unit failure or frozen damper door.

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Crystal cold lpg fridge the fridge part works fine but the freezer only cools to the same temp as the fride compartment


The freezer should go down to about zero degrees. If your unit is constantly running it is because the internal temp has not activated the thermostat to turn off the compressor. Lower than normal refrigerant levels could account for this. Also to be checked out is the evaporator coil not being frozen over with a block of ice - the latter is caused by an inoperable self defroster - this causes the freezer to not cool properly and raise all internal temps.

If not a self defrosting unit, defrost the unit and restart unit. It will cool properly until the evaporator freezes up again. How fast it freezes up depends on how often the freezer door is opened and how much moist warm air enters the freezer compartment.

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2 Answers

Sharp SJ-F80SP-BK 4 Door refrigerator doesn't cool, freezer (bottom) working fine


When the freezer section gets cold and reaches its required cooling temperature, after that the frost on freezer section starts defrosting and the cooling fan in the freezer section blows this cool air from freezer to fridge. But if the defrost cycle does not start then over ice will get collected on freezer ventilations and that will block the air passing section from freezer to fridge, so the freezer gets cool but fridge section does not cool.Its defrost problem. Try manual defrost by unplugging the refrigerator from main power outlet for 4 hours then reconnect it and check, if the same problem is noticed again,. If yes then its defrost board problem. The defrost board located in the back of fridge section. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com or from online sears part site. ------------- Thank you.

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1 Answer

Icing of freezer compartment. compartment freezes and pushes doors open.


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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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1 Answer

Freezer is working fine but the Fridge part is not


i take it the unit is frost free you need to replace the defrost element in the freezer whats happening is your freezer sends cold air through small holes to the fridge compartment but when the freezer cant self defrost those holes freeze over thus no cold air into the fridge compartment get a tech in to check the element shoulnt cost more than $ 80.00

Apr 21, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling and freezing properly


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

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1 Answer

Freezer seems to be working properly, but fridge cant keep temp


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

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1 Answer

The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
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2 Answers

Bosch frost free fridge freezer is freezing up. The draws have a collection of ice on the draw runners causing them to stick and small bits have snapped off. There is also a collection of ice at the...


Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Sep 27, 2008 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Fridge is warm, Freezer working ok


I had the same problem , you have to clean your freezer compartment out completely and take the covers off the inside back of the freezer being carefull not to break any wires, then defrost the cooling module by hand hot water towels messy job.
Make sure the cooling sensor is attached in the right spot and hasn't fallen down, it has a plastic holder it clicks into.
once clean and defrosted put back together and it will be fine...
Try not to put any frozen chip bags or peas etc right at the back of the freezer this causes the cooling system to freeze up.
How the system works it blows cold air from the freezer compartment down to the fridge to cool it and when the system freezes up no cold air to fridge ,hense the problem you are having...
If you are not confident in doing the job you can call a fisher and Paykel tech and they will charge you $150 to do the job.

Apr 01, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Active SmartĀ® E522BR...

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