Question about Frigidaire Bake Element 316075103
Hello I have Crosley model CRE3529GWWA oven. Neither the bake nor broiler comes on anymore. After looking at the diagrams I am suspecting the Thermostat, would this be a reasonable assumption?
Posted by Anonymous on
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: WHY WON'T MY OVEN HEAT UP?
Most modern gas ovens and many broilers use a "glow-bar" style of igniter that glows red-hot to ignite the gas. If the igniter doesn't reach the proper temperature, the gas valve won't open. You may need to replace the igniter.
Posted on Oct 30, 2007
sounds as if perhaps there has been a thermal overload(switch) tha has gone bad, refer to part number 119 on bothe the lower and upper oven for refernce , you should have continuity trough the switches.
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.
318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer
Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.
The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.
To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.
NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.
Posted on May 13, 2009
Error F10 appears due to a faulty oven temperature sensor or faulty wiring on the oven temperature sensor. F10 indicates that the control detects a runaway temperature in the oven. If this error is appearing when the oven is at high temperatures then it is due to a faulty relay on the electronic control board. If this fault code appears when the oven is at room temperature, then the failure points to a failed oven temperature sensor probe circuit or a bad electronic oven control board.
To check this you’ll need to use a multimeter, the resistance of temperature sensor should be around 1100-1200 ohms. If it is above 2000 ohms then the sensor has turned bad. However, if the reading is between the specified range then check the wiring harness connection directly at the electronic oven control board (with the range still unplugged). If the wiring is perfect then you would need to replace the electronic control board. Hope this helps... If it does please do not forget to accept the solution or post back for assistance.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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