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Snowblower doesn't have power

I have a 3 year old Murana 28" , 357cc snowblower which since new never cleared snow like such a big machine should . Even if I overlap rows by 50% , I still have to stop and go repeatedly so it won't clog . Even then , it "blows" the snow maybe 4 feet . I've read the manual which suggests adjusting the speed governor , which I did numerous times , but it's still the same . I think the problem is that the motor isn't reving enough but I don't know how to raise full-throttle rpm . The machine seems to operate smoothly with no other apparent problems . Thanks for any suggestions .

Posted by Anonymous on

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What engine is on your machine? The manual for the machine suggests referring to the manual for the engine that was shipped with the machine.
I'm not familiar with this machine and don't have any around here to look at but it sounds like there is a problem with the carburetor settings, either a manual setting or the governor. When you start the machine, do you move a lever to choke it and then move it again to the "Run" setting? Is there an idle setting?
You mentioned the governor. Have you adjusted it? Did you follow a procedure for your engine? If done correctly, the governor will keep the engine at whatever speed you set the throttle to. If not properly set the governor could hold the throttle closed (low speed).
This machine should throw snow nearly 30m according to the manual, anything less means there isn't enough RPM's to the auger to provide it with the "Power" to throw the snow.

Posted on May 12, 2017

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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wiringlunati
  • 576 Answers

SOURCE: Toro snowblower///// tecumseh# on motor is H35-45598R SER 5283B

Usually that is a sign of the carb not being adjusted right. Run it at full throttle and adjust the main mixture needle (usually on the bottom) until it runs the smoothest. Set it in the middle of the range where it runs smooth. Then set it down to idle and adjust the idle mixture until it runs smooth at idle. Accelerate it rapidly and if it bogs or hesitates turn the idle mixture a little leaner (clockwise) and try again until it works right. That should get you very close. Try tweaking it a bit from there. as the microscopic specks clean out of it, it may need more adjusting.

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: We have Tecumseh TSH 359/22272/81

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

The fact that the engine blew out most of the oil during normal operation is an indication that there is a problem with the crankcase breather. You can usually resolve this by removing the breather from the side of the engine at the base of the valves and cleaning it with engine degreaser and carb cleaner. What I think happened was there was a bit of condensation in your breather and it FROZE in the closed position forcing the crank case to over-pressurize and porting the oil into the breather.

If by chance you over-serviced the engine oil before the last operation it will present the symptom you describe. Also if you tipped the unit more than 30 degrees.

It most likely will not start now from an oil fouled plug.

You can use this manual for locating "How to" repair your engine:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

Here is what the service manual says on page 82.

BREATHER PASSING OIL

1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity rating on the container of

the oil being used is to specification.

2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.

3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the

R.P.M. settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust the

high and low R.P.M. as necessary.

4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident; however, the leak

may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.

5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must face down.

6. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression, determine the

cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves. Follow the compression tester's
procedure.

I can help more... the engine number you passed did not cross.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Jan 29, 2011

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: We have Tecumseh TSH 359/22272/81 motor on a Stiga

Northern Tool and supply should have what your looking for.

Posted on Feb 08, 2011

mindlessforu
  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Snowblower- 8HP Yard Machine-Auger(s) won't turn

Sounds like you broke the belt. The auger housing should be held on by a few bolts between the auger and the engine. Remove the bolts and it should come apart into two pieces. You will most likely find a broken belt there.

Posted on May 23, 2013

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