Question about GE Monogram® ZET958 Electric Double Oven

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GE oven ZET857 DBL not heating well

Oven elements seem to heat up (broil element gets red hot) but doesn't get to 350F.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat

cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 27, 2006

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directcurent
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: GE oven only heats up to 300 then shuts off

just a thought but maby the
tempature sensure has gone bad

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My GE oven heating element heats red hot no matter

Something is probobly wrong with the thermostat, it gets hot to warm up, but should lessen as it reaches your desired temp. If the thermostat is bad it will just keep going.

Posted on Jan 27, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile JTP85 (installed 1998). The lower heat

Hi,


If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101


..............

Posted on Dec 13, 2010

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It may be the bake element that has gone out. The self clean usually uses the broil element to heat the oven. And most oven will either put 120 volts to the broil element while baking or pulse the broil element while baking. This will cause the oven to get warm but not hot. Check the oven bake element it cound be bad or a wire may have burned off.

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Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
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When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
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To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
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  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
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sounds like you may have a bad bake element. try to see if the unit will get hot when set to broil. if it does then try the bake again. if you get no red hot heat from the bake element then you may need to replace it.
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If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
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http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

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The oven stopped working and heating up. The top range part works.


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GE oven only heats up to 300 then shuts off


just a thought but maby the
tempature sensure has gone bad

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