No start has spark injector pulse, fuel, no codes

what does pulse mean, scope or NOid test lamp dead on injector
or the injector tips do now spray when engine is cranked
we can not see you doing the tests and matters.


symptoms. my guess African car, and no engine told, gas/petrol not told
sizes in CC or liters. 4cylinders? (roller cam sure)
2006 is GEN 3.
wiki says it is
1,297 cc and 1,597 cc Rocam (Roller Finger Camshaft)
1.3 or 1.6L which one? SOHC
Brazilian-designed Rocam engine is of single overhead-cam configuration with two valves per cylinder.

dead engine, cranks fast right but engine is dead, will not start or stay running.
won't start with quick start spray works, but will not stay running,
seems it has spark (spray works and sounds good)
starts but will not RUN, (spray lasts for 3 seconds)

so is the cam belt ignored and now slipped (if has belt, no books here)
all fuses, good
scan the PCM for DTC error test

the PCM cuts fuel (injectors) for many reasons, for sure to not catch fire.
1: all fused checked for good in all fuses boxes. as in ALL.
2:no real engine told or country told so folks can help with more exact answers
causes, injection dead ( but PCM fires them with electrical pulse)
top cause fuel pressure not to spec,
the crack a line dribble tests are no good. if dry yes but dribble tests mean zero.
the PSI (BAR)_ pressure must be at spec to the fuel rail.

that is one answser, now lets to , injector all 4 pins have no electrical pulse using noid test lamp or scope see the super fast pulse there, 5mS (0.005 seconds)
that cause is, PCM sees spark dead even if spark is good
the PCM seens throttle by wire dead if present, (no books in USA for bantam)
PCM sees CMP or CKP sensor errors, cam or crank sensors.
PCM sees IMMO failing (security key if has it)

now answer 3.
the engine compression is not 150psi and up tested. 10Bar up, not less.
on all 4 cylinder, and near even.

EGR stuck open
CAT core melted and now engine can not pump air, or run.
lots of test to do .
but I bet fuel pressure is wrong, at the rail 30psi up. for most cars
I have no PSI spec, 2bar up. fuel pressure. not zero not 1. but 2 up.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start Basic Checks:
A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.

B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.

C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)

D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.

E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)


The ENGINE CROSS-SECTION below (typical 'V-8' ENGINE) shows all main ENGINE components and indicates the exact location of the most HEAT DAMAGE PRONE PARTS - THE HEAD GASKETS.

Unhook the catlic converter in the exhaust and the truck will start, if you have spark, fuel and compression.

OK IF YOUR YOUR SURE YOU HAVE SPARK AND FUEL THEN THE PROBLEM IS AIR OR COMPRESSION I WOULD THINK COMPRESSION DO A QUICK COMPRESSION TEST AND I THINK YOU WILL FIND THE PROBLEM IS A BROKEN TIMING CHAIN ONE OTHER POSSIBILITY IS A PLUGGED CATALYST BUT FOR BOTH BANKS TO BE PLUGGED TO THE POINT IT WILL NOT START IS VERY RARE GOOD LUCK (WHEN YOU SAY YOU HAVE FUEL DO YOU MEAN THE FUEL PRESSURE IS GOOD AND YOU HAVE INJECTOR PULSE OR JUST THAT YOU HAVE GOOD PRESSURE THE INJECTORS MUST PULSE AND HAVE AROUND 45 TO 60 PSI (RULE OF THUMB) FOR IT TO START ) USE A NOID LIGHT TO TEST INJECTOR PULSE OR IF NOT AVILABE SUBSTIUTE A 194 BULB AND BEND THE WIRE TABS FROM THE BULB DOWN AND PLUG THEM INTO THE INJECTOR HARNESS (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR ASIAN OR EUROPEAN CARS ) THIS LIGHT WILL BLINK WHEN CRANKING OR RUNNING IF YOU HAVE INJECTOR PULSE

year make and model ?

Fuel pump relay may be weak. Try removing the connector from the oil pressure switch and connecting the terminals together so as to bypass the switch.
if this works, replace the relay.

sorry your tiburon won'y start and you have spent so much money with no results.so lets start with basics, is battery voltage at least 12 volts and does the engine crank over ?, next do you have fuel pressure of 50 psi and good volume?remove a fuel injector electical connector and test for injector pulse.then perform a fuel pressure drop test on each inj.this will tell you if they are spraying.do you have good spark at all the sparkplugs? perform a compression test, spec is 203-218 psi. next you will need to check camshaft timing by bring # 1 cyl. to tdc on the compression stroke and checking the timing marks on the crank and camshaft gears.wish you the best let me know the results.

Fuel pump, you have to have press in the rail to fire all injectors- she will run on ether but not good for her. Ck your pump and any related fuses,relays,wiring.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)

1. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
2.Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
3.Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
4.Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
5.Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)