Question about Archos 604 Digital Media Player

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Archos 604 screen replacement

There are instructions to get the cover plate off of the 504.
The 604 cover plate does not behave like the 504.  Its not hinged on the button side (doesn't appear to be).
How do you get that screen cover border plate off on the button side?

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  • c15guy Oct 26, 2007

    The purpose is to replace the display as I already have a replacement for a cracked screen.

  • c15guy Oct 26, 2007

    Real quick, here's how you do it:

    Look at the 504 screen replacement instructions here:

    This will tell you about the two connectors that you deal with.

    To remove the screen:

    1) Take off the battery.  There are 2 screws under the sticky label in
    the battery compartment.  However you want to do it, remove the two
    black screws. 

    2) Remove the button that is at the top one in the buttons on the right
    edge of the 604.  Do this by removing the phillips screw on the top
    edge of the 604.  This is not a button per se, but rather a label
    button (it cannot be pressed and serves no function).  This will expose
    one of the tabs holding the faceplate down and makes reassembly MUCH

    3) Remove the top two phillips screws on the edge away from the buttons.

    4) Now the faceplate is unattached and you can gently use a flatblade
    screw driver to lever it away from the body.  Start at the edge away
    from the buttons.  Be gentle.  You will have to pop the screen out of
    the faceplate as you lift it away.

    5) Follow the 504 instructions for the two connectors for the screen.
    SCREEN!  This is actually the easiest way to damage the display
    operation.  Pulling on those ribbon cables.  Second easiest way to
    damage is to break the screen.  Don push on the screen itself.  Press
    on the edges.

    6) Reassemble.  The hardest part and the one where damage can be done is getting the stupid display to reseat in the faceplate.

    All through, verify the screen is working periodically by putting the battery in and turning on the player.

    As with any electronics, insure your hands are static free.

    Good luck.

    If done smoothly, this whole operation can be done in about 10 min.  (thats if the screen will seat itself in the faceplate)

  • c15guy Jan 05, 2008

    I forgot one more thing. Important. You have to use mylar tape to insulate the ribbon cable. Look at how the original ribbon tape was insulated. Mimic'ing that exactly is your best bet. I don't recommend your average person replacing his own screen. Its worth the labor difference with Archos (assuming the act in the time frame they say they will) to not have to stress over it.

  • c15guy Jun 30, 2014

    As I recall, there is one more detail here: The display ribbon cable has chip capacitors and other supporting electronics on it. This side of the ribbon cable should have an insulator (mylar tape) applied and covering any of these exposed circuits. Remove the mylar tape from the old cable and apply it to the new cable if there is no insulation covering these cable components. If you do not do this... everything can work until you fully push the display back onto the case - at which point you are likely to short a chip capacitor to something else. This won't kill the new display, but the display won't work. Unpop the display again and it's working. It took me a few tries to go ... DUH ... and look for that mylar insulator (just reuse the old piece of mylar). Its dumb that the new displays (when I did this) didn't come with it.

  • c15guy Jun 30, 2014

    f u fixya... I typed all of this and then you threw it away making me log in. grrr

  • c15guy Jun 30, 2014

    Here it is again (and I'm not going to fix your website so it doesn't do this stupidity)..

  • c15guy Jun 30, 2014

    I forgot one important thing here: if you look at the display ribbon cable, you'll see some intrinsic circuitry: chip capacitors and stuff. These are exposed connections, i.e. not insulated. So you must insulate them before pushing the display back onto the unit. The manufacturer used mylar tape to do this. The easiest solution if you don't already have this is to remove the mylar tape from the old cable and reapply it to the new. Of course, cover completely any ribbon cable components. That's all you are doing. Then when you push the display down, you won't short any of these chip capacitors to other metal and cause your display to blank out (it likely won't damage the display electronics... but you'll be going wtf as your display blanks when you push down to snap it into place and it starts working again when you move it away from the unit. It took me a couple of times to go ... DUH as I released there was no insulating coating over those components and what was happening. You had to have seen me... so focused on not breaking the display or cable connectors and figuring out why that darn screen worked not snapped in place but stopping working once snapped in.



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