Question about Whirlpool LSB6200PQ Top Load Washer

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Tub will not spin

The drive belt was replaced on my top load washer. when the timer gets to the spin cycle i can see and hear the clutch(?) drop down to engage the main pulley. the tub will not try to spin at all. any ideas?

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  • Anonymous Jan 14, 2008

    The washer cycle seems to work until it suppose to rinse...I do not believe the tub is hitting high speed. My clothes are soaking wet anD there is water still left in the washer when the cycle is complete.

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  • 17 Answers

Are you sure you have the right Model number the above model is a driect drive one.... no belt.but there is a drive coupling ?? check model under lid and let me know

Posted on Dec 10, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Help! I replaced the clutch and motor coupling a month ago. Ran great till this week. The wife washed tennis shoes, it quit agitating and spinning-i could hear the motor running fine. I again replaced the...


Have you checked for any damage on the lid switch at all? Washers won't engage the cycle you're having issues with if the lid switch is faulty. usually a magnet or plastic piece that pushes down the piece to engage agitation.

Sep 21, 2017 | Kenmore 22622 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Dec 08, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer will spin but very slowly. Motor and shaft spins out of washer.


Your problem sounds like the drum/tub drive clutch is worn. Especially if the motor operates fine and attempts to spin the tub. This model is a direct drive unit, no belts, so if the motor operates during the spin and drain cycles but the tub is barely moving, only two problems can cause this, bad clutch (which is engaged only during the spin cycles) or worn drive coupling on the motor. If the coupling were a problem, though, you would also notice sluggish or erratic agitation during the wash cycle.

Hope this helps

kcomp1863

Jan 04, 2011 | Roper RAS6233KQ Top Load Washer

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore 80 series washing machine and the spin cylcle isn't working. There is a loud grinding noise during the spin cycle and the tub doesn't spin.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This also assumes that:

1. The machine will agitate and go through the rest of the cycles.

2. It will pump out the water.

3. Since it tries to spin, the Lid Switch is OK.

The problem points to the clutch and / or transmission

See the following for how to pull the clutch on Kenmore top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the clutch springs and pads seem OK, the problem points to the main spin gear inside of the transmission. If the clutch springs and/or pads are damaged, there is a rebuild kit for them.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance PDF on how their top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.

If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.

If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.

Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.

The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.

The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.

The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.



Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Pump works. Spins when empty/no load in tub. clutch slips when loaded


If the drive belt is slipping during the agitate and both spin cycles for loaded conditions, I suspect that the drive belt is excessively worn. If it slipped only during a loaded spin cycle, I would have suspected that the sliding motor mount is gummed up and not moving to a belt tighten position during the start of a spin cycle. Since the unit drains with no problem for loaded and unloaded conditions, the pump belt should be OK. Replace the drive belt and clean the dust, gunk, detergent, etc, out of the sliding mount to make sure that it tightens properly when a loaded spin cycle starts. Note that on most models, the drive belt is designed to slip when spin cycles first engage, and they will continue to slip until after the drum has accelerated.

Sep 23, 2009 | Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer will agitate but does nothing through it's spin cycles. The timer advances through the spin cycle but you can't hear the motor run or even try to start, Washer is aout eight years old.


When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
as you mentioned timer advances,then check out cold water entering the machine or not. If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Jul 13, 2009 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Agitator doesn't spin during wash cycle


If The washer won't agitate
Check to make sure no clothing got wrapped around the agitator. Check the lid switch, timer, and drive belt, other potential causes, such as a bad transmission or bad agitate/spin solenoid, but they are much more involved.
if the washer won't spin, the lid switch, timer, drive belt, transmission, or agitate/spin solenoid could be the cause here as well. Sometimes if the load is unbalanced or too heavy, the washer won't spin. Take some of the clothes out and try the spin cycle again with a lighter load.

Here are the steps to replace the agitator.
1: Take the fabric softener dispenser off and pry off the agitator lid.
2: Use a socket wrench with an extension bar to remove the stud and seal.
3: Remove the agitator top and bottom.
4: Check the agitator clutch assembly (located in the agitator top) for excessive wear.
5: To replace, just reverse the directions.

Jun 29, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer will only wash.


A Clothes Washer with the complaint of "Fills, Agitates, But Does not Drain or Spin" can be:

Defective Door/Lid Switch (Very Common): The lid-switch "that clicking sound you may hear when opening/shutting the door" can become defective after constant "slamming or dropping" or the door. This switch is a relatively simple repair. The lid switch can be located on the inside top of the machine and can be typically removed by (2) screws and un-plugging the electrical from the inside. The lid-switch costs about $15 or so for the part.

Drive-Belt or Coupling (Common) - You may have either a belt or coupling that may connect to the motor, transmission (pulley) and pump (on direct-drive machines). The belt and coupling is the driving force that engages your tub to spin and drain. Typically, upon receiving power from the lid-switch at beginning of rinse cycle, the "drive-train" (motor, transmission and water-pump) is "kick into action". Belt-Drive Machines: The belt is fairly simple to replace and runs about $20 or so. The belts circles and inter-connects with the Transmission Pulley, Motor Pulley or even with the Water Pump Pulley (Metal Cylinder type with belt groove). Direct-Drive Machines: The coupling runs about $10 or so is a little more complicated to repair. The coupling is a total of (3) small - inter-locking plastic components located and attached between the motor (mounted to shaft) and transmission (mounted to shaft) and enables the transmission to spin, upon motor receiving power.

Timer Control - (Very Uncommon)

Jan 28, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer not spinning enough to ring out cloths


if a direct drive whirlpool, its the clutch, easy replacement, if you have the cabinet off already, remove the agitator, then pump, motor, drop tranny and replace clutch

Jan 22, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 80 get stuck after agitate and will not spin out


I have seen this on the same model recently, try lifting the lid during the neutral drain and reclose, if it engages spin then. then most likely your timer is bad too. The timer after two minutes of "neutral drain" will stop the motor (same effect as lid sw) then restart after a pause with spin/drain. this pause shifts the transmission to its next cycle which is spin. I found burned contacts in timer. Your timer list price is over $100 but easy to replace

Nov 24, 2008 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer

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