The lights blink 1 2 3 just as his....

So, it's the injector circuit. There is a 10 amp injector fuse in the fuse block, on left side, 4th one down. Check this fuse. It supplies constant power to both injectors, on the red wire to injector 1, and a white wire splice from this to injector 2. A steady 12 volts anytime key is in on, run, or start. You can check this with a test light or voltmeter. Ground the test light and probe injector connector's red wire on injector 1, and the white wire on injector 2-both should be hot with key on.
This may be why the noid light didn't blink. The noid light must have this steady power signal, and when the computer internally grounds the injector ground circuit for a split second, you get injector pulse-or a blinking noid light.
You can check the ground circuit separately with a test light also for each injector. Place the ground clip of test light on the POSITIVE battery post, and probe the blue (ground) wire on injector 1, the engine must be cranking over, and the test light should be blinking. Do the same for the green wire on injector 2. If the test light is blinking on both ground wires, with engine cranking-the ground circuit is good. You are sending power down the ground wire to computer, and when the computer grounds the circuit, the tester will light up-it will blink because the computer only momentarily grounds the circuit to cause pulsing of the injectors.

Depends. I assume the ecm fuse was replaced and did not blow again, right ?
The computer grounds the injectors to make them open, so depending on what blew the fuse that part of the computer could be cooked.
You should be able to hook a test light to one of the injector plugs to see if it is getting power and ground.

look for fusible links that go to the bed. not it? then look for broken ground wire under the bed.

maybe one of the light connections is grounding out? check the light holders to make sure there is nothing pinched or worn through on the back of the lights.

Remove all the wires from the amp including the remote turn on wire. Once you do that, after about 30 seconds the amp will reset. Hook the power up first, then the ground then the remote. Turn the unit on and check for power WITHOUT the speakers hooked up. If you get no power by now it's a good chance that the amp is cooked. If you do get power, try hoking up your speakers first on one channel then the other channel and then bridged. If it cuts out or off when you touch the speaker wires to one channel or the other, then that channel is no good. Hope this helps.

Are the speakers still working? When the old amp blew it might have blown the speakers too. Are any of the wires grounding out besides the ground? I would check the remote wire too. I also suggest replacing it with a bigger (smaller #) gauge wire, its not as sensitive to interference and gives your amp a boost in actual power to the speakers. Check any fuses to see if they are blown. Make sure all the connections are tight. If no power after this all checks out then amp is blown again and you might want to get smaller speakers or a bigger amp (or better).

Hopefully all you blew was some fuses. Need to check all fuses under dash & in relay/fuse box underhood. Easiest way, hook up test light to ground & test across all fuses. If blown 1 side of fuse will get power,but not the other side.

check power supply or replaced

you might have a short to ground problem. the circuit is complete from the battery to ground. Check the wire from the fuse to the load, and chances are there's a spot in it where the wire is touching ground.

1. Check your grounds. (including grounds for your stereo)

2. Check to make sure the power cable you connected to your car battery is properly connected, and not coming into contact with anything metal.

3. Make sure you are using proper fuses.

4. Check your connection from your stereo to your amp, and your amp to your subs.