I bought this used over the summer. My only problem is getting the auger belt to not break apart after an hour of use. Engine running great, pulleys seem to be aligned correctly, drive pulley and auger move well. Lastly I (may have) adjusted the belt too tight with the second (brand new MTD belt) but not the first. My guesses: bearings need replacing, or pulleys need cleaning (small amount of rust), or auger assembly needs to be lubed. I just don't know. After buring through 2 brand new MTD belts ($35) I bought a kevlar heavy duty FHP belt, which is supposed to be rated for 17hp and fits the same size as OEM spec belt. hopefully it will last through the storm this weekend! thanks.
Try removing the drive belt and turning the auger by hand . If there is no problem it will turn freely by hand but if it feels tight check the auger tube for bends or dents that will restrict the free movement of the shaft. The next thing to check is the pulleys If they are "V" belts then check that you have the correct belt or the correct pulleys for the belt. A "V" belt is fitted correctly when the top most width of the belt is about 1/16 " above the rim of the pulleys . IN other words it just sticks out of the pulley. The pulley sides have to be smooth and not stepped as this creates different running speeds for different sections of the belt and that generates heat. Imagine a duel tyre wheel where one tyre is 2" larger than the other but both are running on the road . As there are different circumferences there fore different distances covered in one revolution Then one tyre is being dragged along. The same applies if the pulleys have steps in the sides from wear.. If it turns freely but feels lumpy then you will need to replace the bearings . Check inside the auger tube as there may be some thing like rope /cloth or wire jammed and acting like a brake.
Bill, thanks for your solution. Today I installed a new belt. This time I installed it by flipping the machine on its front and removing the bottom plate which exposes the belts from below. As it turns out I was previously installing the belts from the top and missed the auger idler "lever" which is a small stell tab that hold your belt in place when you are idling or the auger is disengaged. When you press the auger clutch it moves away from the pulley to release the pulley and belt to move freely. My problem was that I installed the last 2 belts (plus this one) on the outside of this lever without realizing it. I used the blower for several hours today with no problems and a belt that is still intact! If all else fails take it apart! Thanks again.
James Gosnell, you are my hero. This is exactly the issue I was having and would never have solved it if I would't have flipped that machine over and taken that bottom cover off. None of the videos on Youtube (or anywhere else for that matter) show that idler level tab in the way when you install from the top!
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SOURCE: Serpentine belt in a 1995 Mercury sable
I have the same car and last night my belt slipped off. The top small pulley backed it's self out. The problem is in most cars the pulleys are reverse threaded so this wont happen, in ours not so much. The pully spins loose with the turn of the belt so it has to be tightened way down. IT's a pain. Here is a diagram I found and You need a 15mm wrench, which doesn't just come in most sets. Good Luck
The book says "Using a 15 mm socket or wrench on bolt attaching drive belt tensioner pulley, rotate drive belt tensioner clockwise. Make sure spring keeper engages into slot." I would put a socket on the 15 mm pulley bolt and a long handle for leverage. Thats one tight spring.
SOURCE: peugeot 206shredding fan belt. alignment ok pulleys ok
You've covered all the reasons why fan belts shred. I would suggest looking closer, and making sure the bearings are good in all belt driven devices.
Reply back if you have any further questions.
SOURCE: noisy water pump pulley,alternator pulley..timing belt tensioner
I have a 1995 xj6....same problem. I replaced the belts, water pump, and the alternator. Still does it. As I play with the tension on the belt (belt that drives water pump, alternator) it goes away and comes back. If I remove the belt, the metal to metal screech stops. I then, with just the belt, turned the main pulley on the front of the engine, and there was the sound! The main pulley has 2 belts that run on it. Also, 2 pulley tracks. They SHOULD move simultaneously and be super meshed. But the rear one moves on its own under tension until it warms up and I guess, the bushing maybe expands. Now.....how do I fix it??????
SOURCE: Identify the belt tensioner pulley on 1998 Ford Windstar 3.8 L
Its on the lower part of the engine....It was much easier for me to jack the van up and take the the front passenger side tire off..... and I used a 13mm wrench to grab the bolt on the tensioner to push up and then had my daughter put the belt on while I was pushing the tensioner...........of course you can buy a tensioner wrench at a local part store, but I just like to do it the "old shade tree mechanic way!!!"
SOURCE: my 1993 mercury capri is going through alternator belts, breaking
You probably have an aftermarket alternator, Some come with the wrong pulley installed. You cannot swap pulleys because the shaft is different. This is a very common complaint for this car. Find an original equipment alternator off ebay or a junk yard, you'll see the difference on the pulleys...good luck...blueamber... I have owned 6 of these cars
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