The dryer is heating in the Air Fluff, no heat position on selector knob. It is 180 degrees on Air Fluff; 200 degrees on Extra Low Heat; 210 degrees on Medium Heat; after 2 1/2 minutes was 218 degrees on High Heat (stopped to prevent a fuse blowing). It stopped working recently after blowing a fuse due to clogged vent tubes. In the process, we have replaced the motor, blower, thermistor and two thermal fuses.
It sounds like you have a grounded heat element and the heat will stay on all the time,very easy to check,unplug the dryer,pull the two wires off of the heat element,with a meter touch one lead to the outside metal cover of the heater and the other lead to one of the element,then check the other side of the element the same way,if it shows continuity on one end of the element it's grounded and needs to be replaced with a new heating element.and every year or 18 months you have to clean out the dryer,i use a shop vac and a leaf blower,unplug the dryer,remove the bottom panel,remove the lint filter and the metal duct that the filter slides into,vac up all the lint you can see,brush out the hole where the filter goes and with a long thin screw driver dig out the lint that's in the right and left sides of the plastic slots where the filter slides in,now with the shop vac set it to blow and blow all the lint from the back forwards and blow the motor off and vac up the lint,after you clean out the cabinet go to the back and remove the vent line from the dryer,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,if you do this every year you'll have less problems with the dryer,your clothes will dry on time and you don't have to worry about a dryer fire.
SOURCE: blows fuse for heat after about 30 minutes
yes , occassionally though it will run for full cycle ....but not very often
SOURCE: Dryer doesnt work but i hear the timer working
Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal
SOURCE: i have a kenmore he4 no. 110.85871400. i have no
Check thermistor with ohm meter, make sure you unplug unit first, make sure wires are removed from thermistor or you will read ohms thru the wiring. If thermistor checks ok, the you have a relay board problem. replace power board.
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Mod. #110.68932792 Ser. MJ1907445
there is a motor relay in the consol part 3405281,there is also a heat relay too,you can swap em out to see if this is the problem, the one on right side with blue wires is the motor relay let me know how you make out
SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer Model 63932:
The motor relay is probably shot.
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I will assume this is an electric dryer.
When asking for help, you should include the brand and model number to help get a great answer.
In my experience, these are the possible problems in order of how often they happen.
1) Thermal overheat sensor fails. This is a small electrical device that will turn off the heating element if it thinks the dryer is getting too hot. It will have 2 wires connected to it and a silver colored round metal piece that senses the heat. When this part fails, the heater will not turn on. Disconnect the wires from this sensor and verify that it has zero (0) ohms across the two connectors.
2) Heating element could be burned out. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element and verify that it has a low resistance. Replace it if there is no resistance.
3) The thermostat has failed. There is a part that monitors the heat in the oven and turns the heating element on and off. You test it the same way you test item #1 above.
4) Some dryers have a FLUFF setting where the dryer only blows cold air. The switch that selects the heat settings could be broken. You will need to test this switch by looking at the electrical schematic for the dryer and testing the switch as indicated.
5) The knob on the switch that chooses the heat setting could be pushed onto the shaft in the wrong position so it points to "hot" when it is actually set to "fluff." The simplest way to test this is to choose a heat setting one click, either direction, from the one it is on now. If you get heat, the knob is pointing to the wrong place.
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