Clutch slips The clutch slips when it's the bike is cold. Gets better once bike is warmed up. Any ideas? Thanks, John Krieg 715-297-1079

I have no idea what a "volusia" is, but generally when a fuel injected engine runs well when cold, then gets worse as it warms up, the first thing I check is the coolant temp sensor. This part takes the place of the choke on a carb engine and often fails so it tells the ECU the engine is still cold even as it gets warm, causing too much fuel to be delivered.

Sounds like you have a weak pressure plate

Yes, he should have... The problem IS not enough "slack", "clearance", "free play" in the clutch itself once it gets warmed up.. make DOUBLE sure you have the correct fluid in the hydraulic system (if its wrong - it will overheat and expand and cause this very issue!!)..

THINK about whats happening.... when it gets warm, the "slack", "freeplay", and other "clearance" in the entire clutch system is being eliminated due to thermal expansion.. and then the slipping starts... Have the mechanic make DOUBLE SURE he has the metal plates and fiber plates stacked in the correct order and the correct amount of each... and NONE are warped!
good luck!

The popping at idle and deceleration (when the throttle is in the idle position) could be a lean mixture at idle.
A lean mixture sitting at idle for a long light would cause the engine to run hot.
Also, as the engine reaches operating temperatures, the idle will pick up.

is it slipping,?
if the rpms rise and car dont speed up , in direct proportions that is slip.
is it?
if the engine has full power in 1st, the the transmission is bad.

not sure what shift manually means,
Drive to low? low to high. what? be exact in statements/
better stated what it does good and bad, and when. all modes.
are you saying the trans shirts perfectly in AUTOMATIC when cold./?

doesn't need a rebuild
try an oil change for the transmission as it indicates dirty oil and sticking balves
should have been changed at the 60000 miles mark or 120,000miles
run fault codes to check for torque converter clutch servo/ solenoid problem

when it grabs does it kinda bang in to gear.... it sounds alot like what happened to mine and it ended up being a broken shift dog on the first gear .....

Keep in mind that a wet clutch requires special oil and adequate free play to make sure the clutch is fully engaged. Chk both. Regular engine oil wreaks havoc on wet clutches. good luck

Your clutch plates have lasted 25 years. It is probably time to get some new plates. Have your dealer get you a set of Barnett clutch plates.

I have a 2000 Vulcan Nomad FI & had a very similar problem. In fact, it's a very common problem with these bikes. I fixed it by replacing the Clutch Spring. (As Described here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm

It cost me $40 and 3 hours of time with an impact wrench.