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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My Echo power edge trimmer
I was having the same problem and stood there while the tech fixed it for me. I could have done it myself; honestly, nothing to be afraid of. Take the air cleaner off and then take the carburetor off and start taking it apart layer by layer (remove screws and take pictures with a digital camera of how to put it back). It is not complicated and it was a small piece of grass stuck where you never thought it could get that allowed a start but not full throttle.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
SOURCE: lawn trimmer runs but won't rev
You need to clean the carburetor. Remove & disassemble. Use a Den Tek Brush,
(http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Lustrasilk-Lustrasilk-Cholesterol-Shea-Butter-Mango-20Oz-Bonus), to clean small portals in carb. Spray carb. with carb. cleaner. make sure the small screen in carb. is free of debris. Reassemble and start. If this doesn't work, buy a carb.kit and replace the needle valve, gasket(s), small screen, & diaphragm.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
I resolved my problem by taking apart the carborator and cleaning it. There were clogged passaged that had stuff come out of them when I used airisol carb cleaner to blow them out. I only had to make one gasket the carb mount gasket which is pretty basic only 5 holes.
It ran for the next 3 hours, ran fantastic!!!!!!
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
I have the Ryobi BC30 trimmer, also. For a year now, it would only work on half choke. Putting it in run position would cause it to quit. Also, it would no longer idle...it would quit if I idled it for too many seconds. I had not used it in a long while. It would then not run in half choke position and would die in idle. I figured out that if I kept moving the choke lever between full choke and half choke, I could keep it running. I checked the internet for what would cause this. I was using NEW gas and oil. I had replaced the fuel tank because of a hole in it that nothing would seal. This means I had a new tank, fuel filter, and fuel hoses. So, this was not the problem. Since it runs fast between choke and half choke, the basics of the system were fine. I took the carb apart and cleaned whatever I could. Took out the little fuel filter screen and cleaned it. No difference. I took off the exhaust module and looked at it and the screen that is the flame arrestor (mentioned on the internet). It was fine. Of course, folks mention using carb cleaner spray into the air filter port (oh yeah, I had replaced the air filter with a new one earlier). Sprayed repeatedly and no difference.
So, here is WHAT DID WORK! Took the carb off (pretty easy (two nuts to remove, take off the two fuel lines, and remove the little wire that controls the throttle)). Now, take the carb apart carefully screw at a time...geez, there are only two sides! Be careful with the gaskets. One has a thick gasket and a thin one sandwiched together. Pry these apart and clean them (with the carb cleaner spray you already bought). Put them back together and lay aside. Take the other side of the carb apart (another couple of screws?). Need I say to lay everything you take apart on the ground in the order you put them back together? Now you have several big pieces of carb and several smaller plates from each side. Now take your carb cleaner can with the small red straw. Place the straw in EVERY hole you can find on the big pieces and small pieces. Either where goggles or some kind of eye protection. BLAST out all these holes until either fluid comes out ANOTHER hole or obviously this hole goes nowhere. If these holes spray out fine elsewhere, then spray it out backwards through those holes! Be sure to take the fuel filter screen out of its hole (you will just have to find this screen in a fairly large hole in one of the BIG carb parts). Clean the screen by spraying the carb cleaner into it until you are sure it is clean. Place the red carb cleaner straw into the screen filter hole right on the TINY hole at the bottom. Look at the reverse side of the carb. There is a mechanism on a rocker arm that moves up and down with a little push on a flat metal piece. This is the reverse side of where the big hole is that had the screen in it. Blast this out with the carb cleaner while pressing on and off of the flat metal bar on the reverse side. You will see that the flat metal piece is attached to a pole that disappears towards the large hole on the other side (the one that had the screen in it). While blasting from both sides, you will only get a little spray come through. Just keep blasting to clear this component. This is really the only tricky part to clean. ALL the other holes generally will either clear out pretty quickly or there is nothing in the hole. The idea is to BLAST ANY hole you can find in ANY of the parts. Like I said, be careful because while you are blasting TINY holes, you will get a good bit of blast back from the hole you are in. This will cause spray to hit your hands, face, eyes, etc. BE CAREFUL. Don't be a wimp, just protect your self. The carb cleaner is under pressure. It will come out COLD. If you have cuts on your hands, it might even sting. It will also DRY out your fingers if you get enough of this stuff on you. Either wimp out or keep going. If your fingers are getting too cold because of the over spray or back spray, or the carb is freezing, then back off for a bit. This is a disclaimer! Right now my fingers are VERY clean and VERY dried out (but my BC30 works fine!).
Ok, you have sprayed all the holes and figured out that any thru-holes is now clear. Put all the parts and gaskets back together. Reattach the fuel lines to the proper spouts, reattach the throttle control s-curve wire properly. Reattach the carb to the unit with the ONLY TWO nuts. You are now all together again with a really clean carb.
Fill the fuel tank with FRESH GAS from the gas station with the proper oil mixture (come on....just buy the small oil bottles that you use the whole bottle per a gallon of gas).
Ok, you are now starting out with what ought to be a VERY clean carb. THAT problem should be over! What may not be over is that the idle and the high speed may not be working. Remember that my unit would not idle...it would cut off at idle. This procedure cleaned that right up!!!!!!!!!!! The other problem was it would ONLY run at half choke and then less than half choke. Run position would stall and stop.
So, now you need to start the blasted machine. I tried using the proscribed method using FULL choke for a bit, and then half choke. I had waited awhile letting the carb cleaner to evaporate. Don't know. It did not want to even start for awhile. SO, I tried to get it to start in the manner that was working BEFORE I started all this junk. I put the lever in a position between full choke and half choke. This was a very hard position to maintain in order to keep the lever from moving. I had to press the fuel bulb a few times every now and again. I was pressing the FULL POWER button. All of a sudden, it started. And what to my surprise, when I took my hand off the throttle, IT STAYED running! This was PROGRESS!
Now, I put the lever in half choke position and pressed the throttle button. It cranked right up! I was at least back to where I was a year ago. When placing the lever in run position, it tried to stall out as it did a year ago. That was ok, I was making progress. I fiddled around a bit keeping it running and ascertaining that in half choke mode AT IDLE, the unit STAYED ON also at full throttle. I am stoked because I feel the carb is fully cleaned and none of the holes are clogged. So, NOW I feel the only problem is the screw that controls the jet of fuel when the unit is in RUN mode is the problem.
MY UNIT has the TWO screws on the side of the carb. The one closest to the engine controls the IDLE speed of the unit. Since, my machine now idles without cutting off, this screw must be adjusted fine. This also means that one of the holes that deals with the idle was clogged...and my efforts of blowing out ALL the carb holes has fixed this problem. The screw that is FARTHER away from the engine controls the HIGHER speed which includes the RUN position.
So, I took a flat head screw driver to adjust this screw (the OUTSIDE screw). I started the machine in the HALF-choke position that was WORKING. I then turned the outside screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a quarter turn. I then moved the lever to the RUN position. It STILL RAN! WOW! But then, as I revved the engine up and down, it slowed down a bit and made me think it might quit. Put it back in half-choke position and it ran fine and revved back up. I then adjusted the outside screw some more in the counter-clockwise position and went back to the RUN position with the lever. I am making progress. I reached a point where I could leave the lever in the RUN position and kept adjusting the OUTSIDE screw counter-clockwise until the unit would go from idle to full speed in the RUN position without stalling or sounding funny. The end result was that the full power was operational and when I let the throttle go, the unit revved down but kept running fine.
My RYOBI BC30 now runs just as well as it did when I first bought it. I did NOT have to buy a new carb OR a carb kit! I was careful with the existing gaskets (one gasket was broken on the OUTSIDE of the screw it went through but had no effect (the outside was far enough away from the inner important area)).
So, here is the deal. If your Ryobi BC30 only runs when you have it set on half choke or less instead of the RUN position (BUT IT RUNS), then your CARB probably has some plugged up holes in it. If when in idle, it quits, then some hole(s) are clogged. The fix is to BLOW out these holes! I used carb cleaner over and over again until I felt the holes HAD to be clean (spray easily came out somewhere else). Some people say to use canned air to clear out the holes. I had the carb cleaner but not the air. So, I did it with the carb cleaner pressure. This worked.
I must say that EARLIER in my trouble shooting actions, I found bits and pieces of what I figured were bits of gasket material which I removed early on. When you take the two nuts off those LONG two screws that hold the carb to the unit, it is hard to remove the plastic air filter unit. Because of this, it is possible to strip some plastic off the air filter unit that might get into the system. So, be careful here. I had to force the plastic unit off...it simply was very tight...so be aware of this. It was so tight, that I looked many times to see if there was something else holding on to it.
Last deal. You can clean the carb. You can adjust the screws if your unit has them. I have heard that later modules do not have the idle adjust and high speed adjust screws. If yours does not, then follow my directions to clean the carb. I have no idea what to do about the screw adjustments if your module does not have the screws. Troup Nightingale
Posted on Jul 31, 2010
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Be sure to Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
NOTE: Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard.
When you clean your carburetor I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jul 02, 2011
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