Question about Olympus IS-3 DLX 35mm SLR Camera

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How to remove a partially exposed film without losing work?

Often I want to use different film speeds & haven't used a whole roll of film...

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  • boondocKing3 Jun 04, 2009

    I am a nature also handicapped...a bit difficult to carry a

    dark Room with me...& one of those 'dark sleeves'(that is what we used to call them) difficult for me also...I am 74, & handicapped as I said...I was more interested in being able to rewind & 'fast forward to the same spot when I go back to the same one again...Tanks anyhow...rc

  • boondocKing3 Jun 04, 2009

    Thanks for the 'lessons', but I published my first photo, in '47(that is 1947)...I do NATURE photography...from rocks, to mountains trees, animals, birds, flowers, etc...from day break til dark & even some after dark, or before day light...but thanks...rc



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In all modern auto advance film cameras the film advance is locked and automatic. Meaning that the camera must hit the end of the roll of film before it will rewind. Unlike the manual wind predecessors where you could stop mid film and rewind.

You can shoot the rest of the film on small project real quick or you can shoot the remaining frames with your lens cap on until the film is expended.

In either case you loose the frames that have NOT been shot on the roll of film and retain the shots already taken if you finish out your roll of film with pictures of the back of your lens cap.

The bright side is that when you go to develop you will not be charged for black frames if you warn them ahead of time.

Hope this was of help to you.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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Fast-speed film, most commonly 800-speed, is great to use when shooting fast-moving subjects. Late-afternoon baseball or soccer games when the light isn’t quite bright enough for a low-speed film is a perfect time to use a fast speed. The film is fast enough to capture and freeze the action. A slower speed would blur the image. Fast-speed film also works well in dimly lit situations such as a fireworks show, photos taken outdoors at the end of a sunset, or a candle-lit dinner. Film speeds higher than 800 are usually considered a professional grade of film. A time when you might want to use 1600-speed or faster would be at an indoor sporting event where the flash will not reach the subject (such as photographing a volleyball game with a zoom lens from up in the bleachers).
Use a fast-speed film to photograph:

  • fast-moving subjects in low light
  • using a zoom lens in low light
  • dimly lit situations without the aid of a tripod
Do NOT use a fast-speed film to photograph:
  • bright, sunny situations
  • images that you may want to enlarge to 8 x 10 or more (the result will be grainy)
The next time you get ready to load your camera with film, take a moment to consider the subject you are about to begin photographing. Is it a squirmy child, an afternoon sporting event, or a day at the park? Take the available lighting conditions into consideration and choose a film speed that will best fit your needs and you’ll be happy with the results.
As with any rule, there are always exceptions. Don’t let the film speed that happens to be loaded in your camera prevent you from attempting a shot that doesn’t fit these guidelines. Sometimes, having some record of the memory (no matter how blurry or grainy it is) is better than no image at all.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 04, 2009

    If you look on the side of the boxes, you will see numbers. They
    usually read 100, 200, 1000, sometimes they go as high as 3200. That’s
    the film speed,
    called “ASA”. Each number has a different use. The lower numbers
    (100,200) are lower film speeds. The film speeds will also roughly
    correspond to the time it will take to snap you picture (shutter speed
    ). A lower ASA will take a longer shutter speed to snap the perfect exposure. Professionals like these film speeds

    because they will produce a crisper looking picture. So why not always
    use a low film speed? Well, in most cases you can. If you are outdoors,
    where there will be lots of light, low film speeds are ideal. If you
    are inside, they can also be ideal, as long your camera is on a tripod,
    and your subject does not move much. A low film speed indoors (or at
    night) could take as much as a 1/30 of a second or longer to get the
    right exposure. If your camera
    is not on a tripod, or if the subject is moving, you will get blurry
    pictures back. Higher film speeds, such as a 1000 speed, will take a
    shorter time for the picture to be taken. So why not always use a
    higher film speed? You can, but higher film speeds are 1) more
    expensive and 2) will leave the picture grainy. You will not as sharp
    of a picture. That could be bad if you are planning to enlarge your
    picture. Anything over a 5 x 7 print with 1000 speed film is not a good
    idea, because you will be enlarging the graininess of the film. Sports
    photographers often use film speeds of 1000 or higher because there are
    able to “stop” the action in not so ideal lighting conditions. If you
    plan to shoot at night, or in a dark room, with little light, a higher
    film speed might suit your needs better.

    So there is your lesson in choosing film. If that is too much to
    remember, just keep this in the back of your mind. The lower the
    number, the more light you will need. The higher the number, the less
    light you will need. That rule will get you well on your way to
    producing good pictures.


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Use old fashion dark room

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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Two rolls of film developed at CVS - apparently not exposed???

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Do i need to rewind film after taking a picture on my diana f+ ??

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When you finish all the pictures on the roll of 35mm film you will need to rewind the film completely before exposing it to light. You can do this by taking the camera in a pitch dark room, removing the film and turning the knob on the top of the film roll until the film has been completely wound back into the the roll.

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Sorry an answer is impossible without knowing the exact make and model of camera.

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My Pentax SPII shoots blank images

You can check the shutter without film in the camera. Remove the lens and open the film door. You will see the cloth curtains of the shutter in the center. Advance the film lever to **** the shutter and set the speed dial to a slower speed like 1/15. Hold the camera so it is aimed a a light source, (a window will do) and fire the shutter. You should see the light through the shutter for the time duration is is set to. (1/15). If you see the light source, repeat the process going up one speed setting until you reach 1/1000. If you see the shutter open and close as described, then try another roll. After you load the film and close the back door, make note of what the rewind knob is doing as you advance the film. It should spin counter-clockwise each time. That is a easy test to know that the film is traveling in the camera properly. Vary your exposures with the new roll at different speeds and f-stops. You should get exposures, but if not let us know.

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My Mamiya RB67 triggers and shutter lease lever works but film advance lever doesn't move. Trigger button fired several times but film advance still showing 1.

This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.

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If you are getting some photos where only part of the image is visible, then I suspect that they were photos where you used a flash.

Cameras have a specified maximum shutter speed for use with a flash, this is called its 'sync speed'. This is the fastest speed that the camera will need to open the lead shutter and close the trailing shutter in order to expose the entire surface area of the image and have it evenly lit by the flash unit. If you shoot too fast of a speed, then the shutter will only be partly completed its exposure and you'll get a photo with only part of the image showing. The faster the speed past the sync speed, the less the resulting area of the image. Most cameras will have a sync speed of 1/250 or less. I think a lot of the Rebel models are 1/90 - consult your manual.

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Problem in camera or film roll??

Hey msenile,
It is possible that each frame would have image data imprinted without and image being exposed. This could be caused by the shutter not opening while the camera still exposing the film internally with the image data recorded. It is unlikely that this bad film since the emulsion covers the entire surface of the film and if it were bad the image data would not be recorded either. Another cause of this but very unlikely is every frame was somehow extremely underexposed. This could happen if the camera is set to manual and the light level is low and the shutter speed is set to a fast speed and the aperture is set to a very small aperture. I hope this helps!

Go Ahead. Use Us.

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You rewound the roll to fix the camera and now you want to advance over the exposed film to get to the unexposed part? Not a problem, just put the camera to full manual and load up the film, now cover the lens with the lens cover and go into a dark closet and start shooting and advancing until you get to the unexposed portion of the film, there you go. You know you can get 24 exposures of 35mm film for 99 cents and the 99cent store?

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Flashing HI

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