Question about Welding Tools
Have got a AC/DC MITEC TIG WELDER THATS ABOUT 12 MONTH OLD,AND FAILS TO WELD,ONLY SMALL SPARKS FROM THE HAND PIECE,HAVE TRYED TO GET IT REPAIRED WITH NO ONE HAVING ACCESS TO A WIRE DIAGRAM,CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP?????
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: TIG welder help
Choose the electrode to use for the project you are starting as well as the variety of alloys you'll use such as the 6061 Aluminum alloy electrode. Grind the electrode to a point. Try to create a tip and sharpen it to help it become more rounded as you weld. Place the electrode into an electrode holder with the tip about 1/4-inch away from the sheath. Choose the settings on your tig welder. The three main ones are AC, DCEP and DCEN. Choose AC for aluminum. Slide the "cleaning/penetrating" slider more to the penetrating side. Set the "air on" to five seconds and the "max amps" to 250. Turn on the gas. For aluminum, use pure argon. For steel, an argon and carbon dioxide mix. Scrub your welding table or flat piece of sheet metal with a wire brush to make it clean and flat. Gear up in full welding safety gear including hood, goggles, apron and gloves. Hold the electrode in your dominant hand and start your welding project. Check your settings every so often to make sure they haven't changed and adjust as needed.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
Odd noises other than the normal sound of the spark gap working are often the result of dust and junk inside the case of your welder. That it also bogs down when it gets warmed up (fan comes on), also points to a need for some "annual maintenance" stuff being done.
Completely isolate the machine from the building power supply, pul the plug, open the circuit breaker, do whatever it is that makes the machine have no connection to any power.
Take off the covers with a 10mm or 3/8 inch socket (can't remember which)
Use a shop vac to **** out all of the dust and debris out of the machine. Low pressure (40 psi) air can sometimes be helpful to dislodge caked on dirt. Avoid any metal tools near the capacitor bank inside the welder.
Wipe off the fan blades.
Clean the spark gap electrodes by inserting and removing a matchbook cover, a business card, or a piece of white cardboard several times. Inspect the electrodes and adjust them according to the manual that came with the welder.
Check all of the power wiring connections for tightness by gently tugging on them. Look for signs of overheating on the power connections and on the internal connections to the welding terminals. Check the range switch for heating too.
With the cover still off, reconnect the power and turn the welder on. Look for obviously vibrating laminations on the main input transformer. If you see one buzzing back and forth, or if you notice lots of wear and tear on the varnish coating of the laminations, shut everything down and repair the loose laminations with some anti-fungal high voltage varnish.
Turn the welder off, disconnect the power, and put it all back together. Then turn the power back on and weld something, if htere is still a buzzing noise you'll need a Miller tech to solve the problem, you likely have a bad input transfirmer.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Hi, remove the machines cover with the machine unplugged then look for disconencted plugs etc within the machine. careful where you place your bare hands.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Common problem with the SUPER series of Chinese machines. If you can provide some photos of the internals I might be able to help you.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
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