Refrigerator temperature control board

SOURCE: Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer

Dear jorge, I had the same problem when my refrigerator was broken. You need to re-program the control panel as follows: 1. First you need the Program Code for your fridge. It is on the plate on the inside of your fridge, on the same plate that has your Model # and Serial # on it. 2. Programming is done with the refrigerator doors open. 3. Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad on the control panel. 4. Then press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad. 5. Then release the Door Alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds. 6. The control pad will then display PE to indicate it's in programming mode. 7. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature down keypad once more. 8. The control panel will display the current program code. It should be the same one that I asked you to find in Step 1. 9. If the program code is the correct one, exit the programming mode by closing the refrigerator doors. 10. If the program code is not the correct one for your refrigerator, press the Refrigerator Temperature Up or Down to change the value with each keypress. 11. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up or Down to select the next digit. 12. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer Temperature down keypad until the program code begins flashing, indicating that it's been saved. 13. Again, when you're done, exiting the program mode is done by closing the refrigerator doors. Hope this helps alot of people out there. I'm not sure what the problem is at Maytag, but they're extremely slow in getting parts shipped for their units. The local Maytag repair people have indicated to me that they are seeing an overwhelming number of Maytag refrigerators needing repairs that are around the one year age range. They say the quality of the new units is terrible.

SOURCE: Maytag Ice20 refrigerator

You have a bad high voltage board and as the other user said call the manufacturer they are assisting with this problem.

SOURCE: Need Front Control Board, Kenmore Refrigerator Model 106.4410230

Solved it through parts isolation and identification.

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

SOURCE: Info on replacing drain hose on dometic model 2652

You will need to remove the fridge and set it on the floor or at least pull it forward enough to reach the top of the drain hose. There is clip that holds the drain tube to a nipple that sticks out of the back of the fridge that will need to be removed. Remove this clip and the drain hose should pull right off. Route the new drain hose down through the cooling unit coils to the door panel. Attach it back to the nipple with the clip and you should be good to go. The part number for the new drain hose is 2932749019.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

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