I have 14-3 wire coming to thermostate, does L1 go to red of 14-3, does L2 go to black of 14-3, then does load black from thermostate go to black of the heating mat. What do I do with the white of the 14-3 and the white from the mat, there is also a red from thermostate identified as load?
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L1 L2 are the common or line,cord color doesn't mater, green is ground. also should be the ones with screws. try powering the motor for just a few second 2-3 at the most, if it snapsright to life you got it, if it starts slow or not at all, immediately shut it off and check the wiring again. pictures help us fixya guy help u better. there is thousands of different motors
Jay
most likely 240volts as most 120 volt dryers are already wired,depending on if its a 3 or 4 wire system depending on local electrical codes,but if its a 3 wire cord,take the RED to terminal L1 and Black to L2 terminal on the dryer terminal board HINT:(the RED and Black can go on either L1 or L2 they are interchangable) ,then the White wire to the N neutral terminal on the dryer terminal board usuall between the L1 and L2 terminal,if theres a Green Wire on the cord this is safety ground and can be attached to any metallic part on the dryer,if its a gray flat cord the 2 outside wires are L1 and L2 the center is Neutral, so its: RED=L1 or L2 BLACK=L1 or L2 WHITE=N or Neutral GREEN=Safety Ground the metal dryer frame
So there is a problem. Where are you measuring voltage?
Say there is L1 - N - L2. Line1 to Neutral is 120 volts, Line2 to Neutral is also 120 volts, Line1 to Line2 is 240 volts. N or Neutral ( the grounded conductor ) is center tap between line 1 and 2.
With this system, the N wire carries the unbalanced load in amperes .
Now we are talking of L1 and L2 and amperes. When L1 and L2 are conducting 10 amperes each, N carries 0 amperes, Line1 and L2 are balanced. When L1 carries 10 amperes and L2 carries 5 amperes, Line1 N carries 5 amperes, the difference of L1 and L2. This is normal.
When there is a problem with a loose connection on N, there is a resistance and will not carry the unbalanced load normally, the voltages will Chang's under load, the problem will worsen with time, a fire hazard, connected loads may burn up from excessive voltage or not work at all.
Bottom line: Make sure the N line ( white wire ) is tight at every connection and inspect for overheating damage. You may have to open the generator connections panel to check there too.
The black wire is Half of the 240 volts. Both the black and red wires carry 120 volts to make 240 volts. The green wire is going to be your grounding wire. The yellow wir is more than likely your neutral wire (although that goes against the electrical code). Tie in L1 to either black or red. Attach the yellow to n. I hae no idea what the E stands for. What color and how many wire are coming from the oven?
Is it a Green wire with Yellow strips that would be the ground or (earth) would go on the round plug or the center wire if you have a flat cord. The Red can be L1 or L2 The Black can be which ever one is left over L1 or L2 Both the Black and Red wires will be HOT to make up 240 Volts.
It is not 3 phase...just single phase 240V....L1 goes to the one hot side of the 240 v, l2 goes to the other hot side of the 240V, N goes to neutral, and green goes to earth ground (metal box)
so....L1=Black L2=Red N=White E=Green
RED and BLACK are the two 120 volt power lines(that make up the 240 volts needed by the dryer) that go to connections L1 & L2 in the dryer &( it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal),then the WHITE wire goes to the Neutral terminal,this is usually the terminal in between the L1 & L2 terminals,and GREEN is the case ground wire on the unit
I think the only thing powered its the transformer. You connect L1 to Black and white to W and leave the red empty. If it's 120V and you connect L1 to Black and L2 to Red if it's 240V and leave W empty. See attched link to manual, and schematic inside. http://www.raypak.com/uploads/6000.52AG.pdf
depending on your local electrical code:and I see that the unit is 240 Volts A.C., then RED=Power/Black=POWER(L1 & L2)/WHITE="N"Neutral/and GREEN=SAFETY GROUND,on the new unit, then use from the wall power BLACK = L1 and White= L2. then on the unit RED=L1 and BLACK=L2(either way you hook these 2 up there isn't a polarity issue on these 2 wires) on the units hook-up/then use the BARE supply wire as neutral and tie BOTH WHITE and GREEN from the unit together to this BARE wire
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