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I suppose I should have called a repair facility but I am into this pretty deep now. Originally the lower element of the stove burned. I ordered one and installed it. Turned the oven on and as the oven kicks in to heat up a buzzing noise comes from behind the clock. I had an F1 code. After attempts were made to clear the code with no success I bought a clock w/overlay, I did that because the thermal element was within the proper resistance. Same code came up and my wife told me the latch had been malfunctioning for awhile when she did a self clean. Ok so I bought a new latch and I replaced the door seal while I was at it because it was hard on the bottom. Same code came up again and the buzzing noise still exists, it appears to be a solenoid applying many times per second. The only thing I have not changed is the thermostat. The stove is a Maytag MER5870BCS, serial number 14106487AP. Any Thoughts? Bill B

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Hi,

Analog to digital failure. Disconect power for 1 minute. if the code comes back replace the control board.


This error is more likely due to faulty control board. Once you determine the fault, you can go to http://www.sears.com to order the board.

Any further help, let me know.

Thanks for using "Fixya".


Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Lower Oven Element


Are there fuses in this stove. There usually are in most electric stoves Quite often in the back behind the clock if there is one..
You may have blown a fuse.

Oct 18, 2017 | Frigidaire GLEB30S9F Electric Single Oven

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Brand new heater seems to run out of hot water when ran for awhile and seems to take long to recover. also is it supposed to be noisy when running it almosy sounds like water running but its not


You have some hot water so that says specific things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to water heater and circuit breaker are good
-You don't report a leak so TP valve is good
-You are not experiencing overheating event
-ECO reset button is not tripped
-Insulation and covers are in place so thermostat not exposed to cooler temperatures that would cause thermostat to misread temperature and cause overheating.

That leaves 6 suspects listed in order of ease:
1) Leaking faucet or broken water line that is running hot water all the time and tank cannot keep up.

2) Thermostats set too low. Turn power OFF, open covers and check each thermostat setting.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html

3) Loose screw or loose wire at upper thermostat, lower thermostat, or lower element. Turn power OFF and tighten screws, and look for signs of high heat and burning, especially on lower element.

4) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if that corrects problem.
Parts available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Defective wire between upper and lower sections of tank: If this is the case, and water heater has 2" foam insulation, then tank usually replaced since insulation is too dense to drop another wire. Call for manufacturer for warranty information. Do a full troubleshoot using multimeter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

6) Lower element is burned out. Test lower element. Replace lower element. Rheem elements are 4500 Watts and are available at home center, hardware, or plumbing supply
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-element-and-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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1 Answer

The coil in my oven caught on fire


You will need to replace the element, If it was just the lower bake element, it is a very easy repair, two screws and two wire connectors. UNPLUG the stove FIRST!!

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1 Answer

OVEN WANT HEAT PROPERLY FOOD DOSEN'T GET DONE


It could be that your lower element is burnt out or ready to burn out. They last 3-5 years depending how much you use your stove.
Disconnect POWER to the stove, remove the screws holding the lower element to the back of the inside of the stove, pull out carefully and remove the 2 screws holding the wires on. Check the element with an ohm meter or take it to a store that sells replacements ($25) and they may check it for you.

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1 Answer

Lower oven will not heat above 230


The lower element is defective, either it is burned out (replace) or the relay that drives it is defective, have the same problem here (unless you know electronics you would replace the control board in this case). When the unit is preheating it uses both top and bottom elements to reach temp, in this case the bottom element is not doing its part so it never rises over about ~220. Rest of stove will work fine until this is repaired.

Oct 18, 2009 | Jenn-Air JDR8895AAS Dual Fuel (Electric...

1 Answer

FRIGIDAIRE STOVE MODEL FEF316BSC I WAS BAKING


Don't worry! Your element probably blew out. It's no big deal. It happens. Call us for parts. 9728590929. It's really a simple repair, probably one of the easiest to do. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Electric Heating Element Not Heating stove


It's not a fuse, but a wire or heating element has burned up. Please TURN OFF the circuit breaker until you repair the problem, or at least until you know what the problem is! You say "in" the stove, so I'm assuming that you mean in the oven. Whichever element it is, whether it's in the oven or on the stovetop, just needs to be removed and checked for continuity with an ohmmeter. Quite frankly, if it IS an element, then you should see a burned-out spot somewhere on it that's pretty obvious. Then you just need to replace the element. If it's a wire, then you will need to repair the wire so that it safely makes contact with the element again. That process is a little more involved than just replacing an element, but let us know what you find. I can describe a wire-repair procedure if need be. ;)

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