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My RV Dometic made a POP sound

When I turned on the underneath lights. One light was burned out. I replaced the blub and the lights still don't work. Also the Vent blower quit working at the same time. I have removed the housing and nothing looks blown or burned. Do you know what part needs replacing?

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We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights fan can be inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly affect the exhaust fan operation, too.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET

Posted on Jun 04, 2009


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Whirlpool builtin microwave model mh6130xeq1. I replaced the 2 bulbs that were underneath the unit that shine on the oven, but the replacement bulbs do not work. They are 40w appliance bulbs; the same...

You know how when you turn on a regular light bulb and it burns out with a bright flash? What happens is that when the filament burns out, it breaks and bounces back and hits the other electrical post and basically shorts out causing that bright flash. Sometimes, when 1 of the light bulbs in the microwave burned out, it shorted out, and caused the circuit-board trace to burn up. (This is not just conjecture; I've seen it.) If that's the case, then you would have to replace the main control circuit board. A rather expensive repair for no lights. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT, get an ohmmeter and check your new light light bulbs and make sure they are really good. Also, if you can, get a bright flashlight and check the light bulb sockets in the microwave (unplug it first). Check for possible corrosion or signs of arcing on the center electrode of the socket. If that's the problem, you might be able to use a small screwdriver to scrape off the corrosion of the socket (make absolutely sure you have your microwave oven unplugged before you do that!).

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That's a problem on the circuit board which can be repaired simply and inexpensively.

A YouTube video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes, is here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Just got this RV. I can't get the range to light. Is there a shut-off valve that I just don't know about???

There may be a valve under the cook top or under the stove. You will of course have to look. There is really no 'standard' or requriement for a valve to be there.

Another reason for this kind of problem is spiders. Spiders love the smell of propane. If you are sure your gas is ON and you do have fuel in the tanks and the tanks are on, (always have the valves of both tanks open all the time (consistent with the highway regulations in your area) and the selecter lever is pointed left or right (never n the middle!)!) remove each burner and blow it out with compressed air. Simply blow it out with your breath or get some 'canned air' at the computer store.

Does your frig operate on gas? You can force it to run on gas (to check it) by disconnecting the 115 Volts; simply disconnect your main cord. Will your frig come on? How about your heater? and your hot water heater?

YOU MUST have a 12 volt battery connected to your RV - a "HOUSE" battery not a "VEHCLE" battery. Everything in your RV runs on 12 volts except the obvious 115 items like the AC and the microwave and the TV. Do not rely on the 15 amp "converter' to supply all your 12 power requirements which often exceed the ability of your converter to provide.

If you stil have no luck, I suggest you turn off the tanks and disconnect the gas line from the stove. Have an associate turn on the tanks while you observe (smell, watch, listen) the unattached pipe. If you hear, smell or see gas, have them turn it off immediately. Reconnect the pipe and test for gas tightness (use a soap water misture. Bubbles = leak. Next step will be to consider the burner controls. This may not be a DIY job. NOTE: Propane is heavy and will sink to the floor. Make sure you have no open lights or flames when you perform the test above and let the gas excape out the open door.

You don't say how old the RV is and given the thousands of makes and models it really doesn't make a lot of difference. Unlike cars and trucks, manufactures of RV's install what they have subject to many substitutions through out the model year. Typically, newer RVs have electronic ignitions while some older RVs have pilots (NOTE: pilots burn precious limited fuel and generate unnecessary heat) and many are simple match light burners.

I hope I have shed a little light on your trouble and you are able to resolve this problem. If you cannot, of course, you will have to have reservations for supper which will make you or your spouse happy.

I hope you enjoy your camper this summer. Thank you for your interest in and please come again.

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This is most often caused by the filaments shorting when the bulb blows, or by not disconnecting the microwave from the power line when removing or installing a bulb.


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We have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa:


You can find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your model number here:

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