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Power failure after connecting the mouse

My mouse is an optical mouse (model:MP018-E)
One day while operating my computer it suddenly went off but the power supply was O.K.
After that I tried to switch it on but It never started.
Later I unplugged all the ports except the power cable. When I switchedon, it started. Then I started connecting all the ports. But as soon asI plugged in the mouse port again my PC went off. So I started my PCwithout mouse. After windows appears, when I connected my mouse, againit went out and never started. This is a very serious problem ofoperating without mouse.
Please help me out with these. My PC is "PCS ORION", not a very good brand.
Earlier the mouse sometimes stops working while playing games. But the CPU never went off.

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Re: Power failure after connecting the mouse

Hi sambi,

If you are currently, working on PS2 mouse port which is the error occurred as stated in your problem. Try to used other PS2 mouse which working on the other pc maybe there was a short circuit on your old mouse. If the problem persist, You can use the alternative way by using USB port to plug your optical mouse.

Try to look for ps2 to usb port converter in the computer stores maybe you can still used your old mouse.

Hope this will be helpful to you.

Best Regards,


Posted on Oct 24, 2007

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Have an xps 200, monitor suddenly went black the other day in the middle of use. Noticed the power light had gone from green to amber. When I push button on monitor says it is in power save mode, to move...

Try connecting the monitor to a friend's computer. If you get some sort of a display it's not the problem. When you say that the computer makes a new noise like the fans are spinning fast, you might have an issue with the video card , motherboard, or power supply.

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My optiplex 960 does not turn on. the number 3 flashed for a second. I replaced the motherboard. Now the 3 flashes for a second or two, then turns off and then the 1 and 3 lights blink.

Dell Support > Optiplex 960 > Manuals & Documentation tab > Service Manual (6460KB),

A) "Light Pattern,
Number 3 - Blinking Amber -
A possible motherboard failure has occurred"

This you must have known........however going on.........

"Number 1 and 3 blinking amber -
A possible motherboard, Power Supply, or peripheral failure has occurred"

The first thing to check with desktop computer failure, is the Power Supply.

If we are to agree that using the motherboard diagnostic LED's, and specifically the No.3 LED was blinking Amber; then we can agree it was motherboard failure in the first place.

However, me? I'm a skeptical computer geek.

I ALWAYS, test the Power Supply's 3 main voltage power rails FIRST, then I may go on to assume diagnoses has led to the motherboard, peripherals, etc.

From there, it's check the Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard, for visual capacitor failure.

The motherboard chipset going out, is a Rarity.
IF, it does fail; it's usually the Northbridge chip of the motherboard chipset; because it get's the hottest.

(That's why it has an aluminum finned Heatsink on it. Sometimes Southbridge chips do too)

Southbridge chip is next in line.

You don't know how many desktop computers, I have fixed over the years; that the problem was the Power Supply, and not the motherboard, as assumed by the owner.

Also it's all over the internet.

LED's light up, and fans spin; and people assume the Power Supply is OK.
This = No.

1) If ALL of the LED's were lit up at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor (CPU) uses 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

Therefore a Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will have PLENTY of power to operate those simpy little Light Emitting Diodes, and maybe spin fans; but will NOT have enough power to turn the Processor on.

Either test the 3 main voltage power rails, with a multimeter set to DC Voltage, (3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts),
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a temporary test unit.

Power Supply deemed to be good? Go on with the diagnoses.

Visually inspect the capacitors on the motherboard,

What? Are you cra-zy Joe? Did you not read I replaced the motherboard?


That motherboard you have, IF a direct replacement; is an NOS.
New/Old Stock.
Been sitting on a shelf for years.

Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. It's the 'nature of the beast'.
They have Electrolytic Paste inside, which is a chemical.
It's known to break down over time.

Computer engineers know this, and use capacitors that are rated at TWICE what is needed. 200 percent.
So..........when the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the application.

New purchase, or not IMHO it could be a bad motherboard.

Another point of interest; Electrolytic Capacitors do NOT always show outside visual signs of failure.
The Electrolytic Paste inside can just dry up, instead of developing a gas, (Hydrogen Gas), and not break the seals of the capacitor.

However, I would make sure the power is good, then disconnect all internal peripherals.

Peripherals are also the Harddrive, as well as the optical drive (CD/DVD drive), and Card Reader or Floppy drive.

(Outside peripherals; Keyboard, Mouse, Monitor, Printer, etc.
Leave Keyboard, Mouse, and Monitor of course; but disconnect any other outside peripheral)

That means disconnect the data cable from Harddrive to motherboard, and power cable to Harddrive.
Also same for optical drive/s.

Disconnect, the two cables from the USB header on the motherboard, for the Card Reader. (media)

Floppy Disk Drive data cable, and power cable, IF used.

LEAVE the front computer case fan connected, as it's cooling for the Processor. Ram Memory is installed also.

(NO graphics card if you have installed one. Connect monitor cable back to the motherboard. {Back of computer > I/O area)

So essentially we are talking just Processor, processor fan, and Ram Memory.

Turn the computer on.
Try to pull the BIOS Setup screen, up.

If no, you have a bad motherboard.

Now remember, this is AFTER the Power Supply has been deemed good.

BIOS Setup screen comes up?
Then reconnect the harddrive.
Good to go?

Then reconnect the optical drive. If drives, connect one at a time.
Then connect the second optical drive.

Good to go?
Then reconnect the card reader.

Had a post from someone on here not long ago; that we went through diagnosing; until he found out the Card Reader was the problem.

If memory serves it was one of the cables, coming from the card reader.

I'm guessing he ran a continuity test on the cable, with a multimeter set to OHM's, to check whether it was indeed the cable; or the USB header on the motherboard it plugged into.

He never stated.

Arranging all that prattle I stated above.......I mean Summation:

1) Test Power Supply voltage power rails, or use KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply

2) Visually inspect Capacitors on motherboard.

3) Processor, processor fan, Ram Memory, ONLY; see if you can get BIOS Setup screen to come up.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


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My wireless optical mouse is no longer working

You replaced the batteries. Okay. Did you install drivers for the mouse from a CD? Are you using Windows XP? Do you notice any change if you use the mouse on a darker surface as opposed to lighter surface? If the computer installed the drivers for you, then you might want to delete them in Device Manager (might be called something like HID-Compliant Mice. Single click on that entry, press the delete key. You might have to reboot your PC after that. From there you might have to unplug, then plug in the mouse again and you should notice the driver reinstalling. Give it a second and all should be good.

*Access the Device Manager by right-clicking on My Computer, select Properties, go to the Hardware tab and select Device Manager.

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Has anyone found a fix (short of getting rid of) for Logitech MX 600 Laser Mouse pointer erratic operation?? Seems to work OK on a Flat smooth surface, but jumps all over the place on any mouse pad I have...

  1. Mouse is not clean.
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  3. Moisture or other material on finger.
Mouse is not clean Users who have an optical mechanical mouse (most common mouse for desktop computers) are likely experiencing erratic behavior because the mouse is not clean or is dirty. Optical portion of mouse is blocked
Users who have an optical mouse are likely experiencing erratic behavior because a portion of the optical eye is blocked. Most commonly this is caused by a hair.
Moisture or other material on finger Users who are using a touchpad may experience erratic behavior because of moisture or other material on the finger such as lotion.
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Problem with a dell computer..


You may try connecting a different usb keyboard to your system. Mostly, some keyboard converted from serial connection to a usb could cause this kind of problem. In some cases also, wireless keyboard and mouse won't work when u turned on your system if the driver is not properly install.

You may also try disconnecting any other usb devices from your computer. Disconnect also your power supply then push and hold the power button for 5 seconds. Plug back in the power cord then connect your keyboard. Turn on your computer. if it doesn't work, i suggest to call your computer manufacturer and check your warranty. This could be an issue with the motherboard of your computer.

Keep me posted.



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Dead pc

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