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New Noritz 751M-OD not getting up to temp. - Water Heaters

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If you mean the water at your fixtures isn't getting hot, then you should initially check for a cross connection. A cross connection is cold water leaking into the hot water system. The easiest way to check for one, is to shutoff the cold water entering your tankless heater and then open up hot water fixtures throughout your home. The water at your fixtures should come to a complete stop (it may drain for a while, especially if you have a 2 story home). If you see a continuous stream of water, then you have a cross connection. The most common place for a cross connection to form is at failed shower cartridges.

The next most common reason for improper output temperature would be insufficient gas supply; however, this would be accompanied by combustion error codes such 90, 59, 11, and 12 codes.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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Check the thermostat this would be the only thing keeping it from getting to any temp,, other then the gas valve, is it constant or happens here and there;;;

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

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Can we change the orfice on our Noritz N-0751M natural gas to liguid propane?


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The heat exchanger isn't difficult to replace, but it is confusing if it's your first time doing it. I'd recommend calling Noritz for assitance.

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1. disconnect power
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After freezing weather the Noritz N-0751M-OD started leeking water and now there is no power to the unit or panel..is the unit toast?


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Won't Turn on.


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May 29, 2009 | Noritz 6.3 Gallon Residential Tankless...

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Water Heater Won't Fire up


I had the same problem with my Noritz 751M, I called the plumber and after he talked with Noritz and ran a bunch of tests (for $150) he told me I needed a new unit ($4,000 installed). They implied it was my fault cause I never flushed it over 8 years. They were unable to tell me the flow rate though (which should be very low if scale was my main issue). I decided to take over as I am very handy and an engineer. Here is what I found:

1. The unit is 8 years old and was never descaled (orig installer did not install the bypass valves nor tell me to flush annually). So, I installed the valves ($70) and bought a pump/hoses/bucket/Zep CLR ($150) and did the flush. There was tons of flow thru the exchanger (I did not measure how much).

2. I called Noritz myself (they were very helpful) and cleaned up the igniter rod with sandpaper (it was very discolored due to 8 years of sparking). This did the trick and my unit fired up but it was very sporadic (sometimes yes & no). The difficult part is that while the igniter is installed you CANNOT actually see (nor definitively hear) the sparking. It seems like sometimes the spark happens (unit fires right up) and sometimes it doesn't (unit cycles and ends in a Code 11 after a couple of minutes).

3. INFO: Per the field manual (Search google for: docslide.us_noritz-field-manual-2009) you can read the flow rate data from Data #14 on the remote control. It needs to be >0.5 GPM for the sparking to happen which then triggers the gas flow. You can live monitor Data #14 by following the instructions in the field manual on pp.46-47. The startup logic is: Flow > 0.5 GPM then Sparking Happens then the Gas Flows then Flames start in the combustion chamber


4. I got mine to successfully start by loosening the ignitor rod PN 101 and jiggling it while still inserted into the combustion chamber (holding it with insulated pliers while still against the case) - somewhat dangerous and startling when after sparking the gas flows and flaming starts but not too bad.


5. BOTTOMLINE: I got it working but it would not "always" light (even though my flow was always >0.5 GPM). Noritz told me that it is probably because I have the older black ignitor (PN 126 = EHEJ003). They have a new and improved gray ignitor (PN 126 = EMUJ004). I ordered it with a couple of other ignitor parts for a total of $35. I just installed them and they work great - ignition all the time from every faucet.


6. ENDGAME: Order the new ignitor parts, verify your flow rates using the field manual. See the pics below for some insight. I spent 20 hrs troubleshooting and wanted o share. If you want more info just email me at: tmorganjets@gmail.com

You can monitor the flow rate and flame by doing a skype (PC at faucet to Phone place in front of Noritz) - you will be able to see the Noritz turning on (with flow rate displayed) each time you turn on a faucet - it is very helpful for troubleshooting and verification
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How many faucets do you have on when this happens? Turn on more than 1 and if it still does the samt thing than I would check to see if the inlet water screen has debris in it. Valve off the unit and look at the inlet water side and theres a screeen that you should be able to remove and clean undeneith some running water and then replace. Good Luck

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