DOD 84 chevy diesel 24 volt, after jumpstarting one of the dead cell batterys and trying to start the motor when it failed to start the engine ran backwards the starter reversed direction. and the one of two battery exploded. when i replaced the batterys and terminated just one battery the starter engauged in reverse any ideas on what happend?

check --clean and test battery and connections --------

engine starts and runs and stays running, even runs 1 hours.
if yes battery is not dead, only fuses blow.

Ford Bantam Rocam no year told makes answer 10x , more hard.
no country told and is not USA.
battery dead, charge it ? or jumpstart car,

no car told nor country or engine.

• Ford Motor Company of Southern Africa (1983-1985)
• Samcor (1985-1994)
• Ford Motor Company of Southern Africa (1994-2011)

Also called Mazda Rustler (1983-2001) Production---83 to 2011

2002 to 2006?

The third-generation Bantam was initially made available with a choice of 1,297 cc and 1,597 cc Rocam (Roller Finger Camshaft) petrol engines, and a normally-aspirated 1,755 cc Endura-D diesel engine. Being a low-cost derivative of the multi-valve Zetec-SE that was intended for developing markets, the Brazilian-designed Rocam engine is of single overhead-cam configuration with two valves per cylinder.


fuse in cab and under hood must all be good,
most posters here (noobs) think one fuse box, then open hood and are omg 2, yes.
then discover Fusible links blown 50 to 100 + amps making alternator dead or other fuse boxes dead, (n0 12vdc means dead power DC)
engine running battery reads 13. to 15 vdc but if lower alt is dead or off line or fuse huge it is blown/

sorry no bantams in USA nor books for it to make me share, schematics.
not old what you meant. by

"no power at fuse box" using a voltmeter> you saw 0vdc zero volts DC,
>??
we can not see you do tests, so tell the test methods.
yes a voltmeter finds all this out most easy, done right.
open mind to 2 or 3 fuseboxs or more on allcars, and for sure fords and their stinky hard to find FUSIBLE links in vast odd shapes.
odd seen and odd to find, them.
key on zero volts across a fuse is good fuse.
then 12vdc to ground key on..

do head lamps work key on and off?

wipers and turns dead.
but what else works??????? sure engine but what else.

cars electrics look like nakked (sic) tree and we call branches same and a power feed too.
at the base of said tree are huge fuses. some are 50amps up]
and 2 or 4 of them. can be.
so all are tested.

this forum is global, so no country told gets wrong answers,
mine is pure GENERIC>

dead battery faulty transfer [ if you have one ] failed starter - bad connections

If you allways have to jumpstart, then that battery is bad OR the charging system doesn't work.
To check the charging system: Run the engine.
After a few minutes, with the jumpstart cables removed, mesure the voltage over the battery. It should be between 12.8 and 14.3 volts.
If below 12.8 volts, the charging circuit is faultly. If over 14.3volts, it will cook and thus destroy your battery.
If that seems correct, disconnect the battery and have it loaded with a battery charger. Never charge faster than 10% of the battery capacity ( For an 18Ah battery, load at maximum 1.8Amps. Never load above 14.8volts )
Leave the battery disconnected for a day or 3 and test starting thereafter. If it goes, there is a current consumption in the atv. If it won't work, the battery is bad.

Good luck!

SIMPLE BAD ALTERNATOR STATOR MAGNITO ETC.. JUST REPLACE PART AND ALL WIRES TO PART ETC.

Hi, the best thing for you to do would be to remove the battery and give it a full charge using a battery charger doing this should get your car back to normal, as using jump leads dont always switch the imoboliser off as its not running off its own battery fully, so the best things to do would be to go and buy or borrow a battery charger and remove the battery from the car and put it on charge for a few hours, or you can leave the battery on the car as long as you undo the terminals while u r charging the battery, then once its fully charged you need to shut all the doors and windows and lock the doors, then unlock them again, doing this should reset the imob and then this will allow you to start that car and should have you up and running again.

if your car runs on diesel then let me know as if it is and it has run out of diesel then you need to pump the diesel back round the engine using a priming pump under the bonnet, without doing this it juts wont start and your battery will keep going flat,

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok,
thanks

A battery can read 12 volts yet be weak in cold cranking amps, try a jumpstart and if that works have your battery load tested. Im betting your gonna find the battery fails the load test, meaning it needs to be replaced..

buy a cheap volt meter check voltage on both sides of the starter seleniod on the fenderwell if you have 12 volts on both sides while cranking test voltage at starter if you have 12 volts at starter with fully charged battery and it doesnt start you will need a starter it also sounds like you might need an alternator once you can get it started

SOUND LIKE THE HEAD GASKET LEAKING.MOST OF THE TIME WHEN YOU FIND COOLANT IN OIL.HEAD GASKET LEAKING.

There are a couple of factors here:

1. If you noticed the car getting harder to start when warm lately, it could be the starter is bad; a bad starter will work when cold but once it heats up, will require more and more power to turn over
2. Bad battery; a dead battery won't turn the car over even with a jump; it would need a slow charge to work again; even sealed batteries have caps that can be pried open to do a cell check (battery cell checkers inexspensive at the auto parts store) if you have 1 dead cell, the battery needs replacement
3. Corrosion; just because the posts and cables may be clean at the battery, doesn't mean there's no corrosion on the other ends of the cables

Hope this answers your question and gives you a good place to start. All the best.
Greg