Question about KitchenAid KSRP25FNSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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KitchenAid.model KSRP25FNSS high temp in ref.but frost in freezer

I have a KitchenAid refrigerator model KSRP25FNSS and I noticed that the refrigerator temp has risen to 58 degrees but the freezer is working fine. I cleaned the coils at the bottom but that did not solve the problem.
Also I made sure the vents in either freezer or refrigerator are clear from any obstruction, but I noticed the back panel in the freezer had some frost accumulated. So I opened the panel and melted the ice. I am not sure how the automatic defrost on this unit works because the only parts that I saw behind the freezer panel was the evaporator and the fan which was working and a bi -metal defrost mechanism that had two wires connected to it and there was no timer.
When I called for service, the repairman said that it could be one of the following that causes the problem.
Heater, Thermostat or the electronic Board. The first 2 are moderately priced but the electronic board is in the $200 range. Is there anyway that I could check to see if the electronic board is operating properly. The unit is only 4.5 years old and I was just curious to find out if I could fix it myself and save some money in this hard times. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Center partition wall of refrigerator is hot !

Sounds like your condenser fan isn't working...Take the back cover off to see if there's anything stuck in the fan blades. Usually when the fan stops, the compressor & tubing that runs between the doors get really hot. You may also want to clean your condenser coils.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: Ice build up on a corner of the coil.

could be low on freon or insuffencient compressor...

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer temp registers 28 - 36, I cleaned out

That fan behind the refrig , is the fan that cools the compressor . It should be running any time the compressor runs . If not running , replace it . The center divider between the fridge and freezer ( front strip ) should be getting hot to the touch if the fan is not running .

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

projdoc
  • 2236 Answers

SOURCE: KitchenAid refrigerator model KSSC48QMS00, evaporator fan runs 24

is the compressor running too? if not, the relay is stuck.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: KitchenAid KSRS25QXAL10 Side-by-Side (1992) won't defrost

HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

TESTING YOUR DEFROST TIMER MODULE


To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically. Test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it should be replaced.

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

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FREEZER FAN MOTOR MAY NEED REPLACED. THE EASIEST WAY IS TO TAKE OFF THE BACK PANEL IN FREEZER AND REMOVE THE FAN
MOTOR, TAKE IT TO THE NEAREST APPLIANCE PARTS STORE WITH YOUR MODEL NO.
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I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Sep 23, 2011 | KitchenAid KSRP25FNSS Side by Side...

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Defrost not working where is the defrost button


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If
you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE
TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Aug 19, 2011 | KitchenAid KSRP25FNSS Side by Side...

1 Answer

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HI,
I am assuming that the problem is with dispensing ice only, is the water portion of the dispenser still working? Are the switches in the dispenser making contact, I have seen in some model as yours that the dispenser switch bracket broken and would not make contact with the arms when attempting to dispense. Last question, is the bar to the motor you replaced connected properly? I have seen the service motor have a deep well in it and not make contact with the bin as it rotates.
I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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So, how can the Ref side be cold and the freezer side not freezing?

1. Coolant leak. There is enough coolant to keep the Ref side cool but not enough to freeze on the freezer side.

2. Defrost system failure. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice and it's just a matter of time when the Ref side won't cool either. The back wall in the freezer will be covered with ice/frost

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HI thanks for your question. the way that frost builds up on the return line is the freezer is running too long . you have the temp set at too cold a setting 34 deg is too cold. it should be 36. 37. other wise frost builds up.thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks.

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