Washer will not spin sometimes/ Safety switch broken and I need to lift the lid to install new switch. Any suggestions?
Hi Catriver, My washing machine runs fine until I get to the spin cycle. It will spin if I take some clothes out (down to 3 or 4 pieces of clothes). I have to run about 4 spins cycles by taking clothes in and out. It will not spin w/ all the clothes in the washer. Do you have any suggestions what could be wrong? Thanks Email address: firstname.lastname@example.org Note: not sure what model it is right now. I had to put something in. I have a Kenmore 80 series Heavy Duty Super Capacity Plus and the safety switch has broken from the screws. I have gotten a new switch and need to lift the lid to access the plug and ground wire attachment. Any suggestions?
The intermittent spin cycle problem is generally a clue that the lid switch may be malfunctioning in some way. If you've already diagnosed this to be your problem, then the link I provided will give you the necessary guidance to complete this repair. If you have any questions along the way, please let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.
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Spinning and Rinsing require a safety switch to be enabled by the closing of the washers lid.
Check around your lid and washer lid opening to find the mechanism that is used to activate the safety switch mounted just under the lid opening inside your machine. Sometimes it is a plastic plunger(protrusion) on the lid that mates with and opening(hole) in the machine around the lid opening to cause this switch to close. Other times it is on the hinge side of the lid and the protrusion is formed right into the metal of the lid itself to push a plunger on the hinge side to close this safety switch.
Most spinning problems on machines are cause by this lid safety switch. Washing machines cannot spin if the lid is not closed and this safety switch is not working to switch power to the spinning motor.
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Lady Victoria, you are going to have to remove the cabinet to get to the lid switch. Remove the two screws from the back of the top consol and flip it up. Unplug the lid switch and remove the snap springs. The cabinet will now lift off and you can get at the lid switch. I will attach some helpful pics...Catriver..post back
Popcorn, sounds like you are having trouble with the lid switch. The plastic housing in which the screws hold the switch to the cabinet may have cracked, or came loose. If the lid switch is not making correct contact the result is no spin, no drain. The switch actuator on the lid itself may need adjustment. The lid switch is mounted to the cabinet on the back right side under the consol. The lid switch part number is 8054980. But check the actuator first. Catriver..post back.
Tbone, make sure the lid switch is not broke or loose and the actuator is making the lid switch. Usually when you have a no spin, no drain on these direct drive models it involves the lid switch..Catriver...post back.