Brake pedal sinks 1-2 inches while holding

No need to panic rush through this procedure, just do it right. Haste makes waste.

1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.

2. Insert an original Master Key into the ignition but do not turn it.

3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.

4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.

5. Within 10 seconds insert New Key into ignition but do not turn it.

6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.

7. Now sit and wait for about one minute until the security light in the center counsel stops blinking and turns off.

8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

9. Test your key now. It should work if you followed the instructions. If not, you may want to try the following instructions:

This procedure is for 2002 Camry and most other models in this year of Toyota. In the future always give the model as well as year and make. Thanks

Not sure if you have done all this.



BRAKE BOOSTER INSPECTION

Functional test:
1. With the engine stopped, Depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty
2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or the check valve is faulty

Leak Test:
1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty
2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

Check valve test:
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be a vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.

END TEST

Clean your fuel lines. Check your pump. If not any of those check to see if your throwing codes

bleed air out of system start by jacking up right rear and letting set for 1 hr then start bleeding brakes in this order right rear left rear right front left front bleed with hose on bleeder into a mason jar with a 1/2 inch of fluid in it bleed until no air comes out how to bleed is pump pedal 5 times then hold down pedal and release bleeder then lock bleeder down and slowly release pedal check fluid leve every third bleed do not let level get low or you will re introduce air into system

The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal. The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.

• 1 Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
  
• 2 Open the hood and prop it up with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
  
• 3 Locate the fluid-level sensor connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
  
• 4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
  
• 5 Remove the bolts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your vehicle's painted surfaces.
  
• 6 Verify that the rubber O-ring seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install the master cylinder.
  
• 7 Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
  
• 8 Depress the brake pedal a number of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
  
• 9 Thread the brake lines into the proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it. Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor. Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this process on the rear port.
  Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top
  

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Hello deepockets4: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. With the engine off depress the brake pedal 5 or 6 times. After doing this hold down the brake pedal and start the engine. The pedal should fall about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from where the pedal was. Should the pedal not drop you have a vacuum problem. If you have a hydra-boost brake system this check will not work. A Hydra-boost brake system does not have a brake booster. This system uses the power steering pump as the assist on the brake system. With the hydra-boost system the pedal will go all the way to the floor but you would have already put your nose to the windshield. For the hydra-boost system to fail you generally will have a power steering leak or pump failure. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Here is the procedure from the service manual. I would add just one thing. Do each wheel in this order

1. right rear wheel
2. left rear wheel
3. right front wheel
4. left front wheel

BLEEDING

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.


a)FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID Fluid:SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

b)BLEED MASTER CYLINDER HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

c)Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. SST 09023-00100 Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.

Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the brake pedal.
Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.


BLEED BRAKE LINE

1. Connect the vinyl tube to the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
3. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. Torque: (Bleeder plug) Front brake caliper
: 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.) Rear wheel cylinder: 8.5 Nm (87 kgf-cm, 75 inch lbs.)
4. Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
5. Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

pump up pedal with bleeder locked 6 or 7 times slowly,hold pedal down crack bleeder pedal should sink lock up bleeder before lifting pedal repeat several times should do it also remove bleeder feom caliper to make sure its not blocked

My 03 trailblazer does the same thing and the service dept. told me that it was normal for this model to do that, it has never failed to stop but if your sitting at a red light you can feel the peddle go down to almost the floor but it stops fine and it has done this since day 1 and they say thats normal on the trailblazer.