Question about Belling BE811 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Frost free combo unit fridge keeps getting warm

The fridge section keeps getting to warm. I have pluged it out and defrost the hole unit as my dad told me that the fan some times get frosted up and will not circleate the air. The first time i did this it worked. The fridge was back too normal, but a week later in happened again so i repated the process and it worked fine. Now 2 weeks later it is happening again. Please help,

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Hi: You have a bad defrost heater or defrost timer. I'm not familiar with the brand but the heater will be below the evaporator coils in the freezer ( in the back behind a panel.) When you do your defrost that your dad told you to do, it will work until it frosts up again. You are doing the work of the defrost heater. I hope this helps, Jeff

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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My fridge is leaking water from the top shelf down to the bottom and onto the floor


You most likely have a clogged defrost drain tube in the freezer, this diverts water through the damper into the fridge section in units with the freezer on top... Remove the back wall of the freezer and look beneath the tubing and you will see an ice pad... Use a turkey baster and warm water to reveal the drain hole, then force warm water down it until it is clear... Have some towels handy. Whirlpool Refrigerator Drain Strap 819043

Nov 09, 2013 | Frost Inglis 17.6 Cu. Ft. -Free Top-Mount...

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Refridgerator warm and freezer is icy cold


Frost free fridge freezers are very popular and auto defrosting fridges are a great convenience. In a frost free appliance the cold air is blown round the freezer using a fan. On modern refrigeration the evaporator (which is the plate that gets cold) is hidden behind the plastic wall inside at the back of the food shelves. When working correctly you can usually see small beads of ice randomly scattered on the back wall unless it's in a defrost cycle when you may see water.<br /> Heater inside Believe it or not most modern refrigeration has a heater inside. This heater is used to defrost the appliance automatically. During the defrosting cycle the ice on the back wall melts and runs down the back wall into a channel. It is then directed through a hole out through to the back and runs into the evaporator tray. The evaporator tray is on top of the compressor which gets pretty hot and evaporates this water into the air.<br /> Because the evaporator is behind a back panel the cold air has to be blown around the compartment with a fan motor. The defrost cycle also needs sensors and a timer and combined with several sensors throughout and PCBs to control everything the result is there is a lot more to go wrong than there used to be in old-fashioned conventional fridges. However, they are still fairly reliable.<br /> Common problems with frost free fridge freezers If the door is left open for too long (especially in humid conditions) the evaporator freezes over and the unit will not keep the food cold. This problem (unlike the older machines) has a greater impact because you can't see the amount of ice built up around the back of the panel hiding the evaporator. In many frost free fridges the ice can form all the way round the fan and cause it to run slowly or even seize up. Prior to seizing up the fan may catch on the ice and make a high pitched noise. This will of course result in the fridge or freezer not getting cold. If you hear a strange noise from your frost free fridge freezer which sounds like something is catching on a rotating fan it could be due to ice forming around it.<br /> If it stops working due to ice forming behind the evaporator and round the fan then defrosting the unit manually can fix it but it involves unplugging the unit for at least take 12 hours or so. You may not see much frost as it would be behind the back wall or behind the fan unit. You can't really use a hair dryer on modern units because they may have a thermal fuse which protects the defrost cycle. Also, even just getting to the evaporator to defrost it can be a mammoth task especially with some of the new American-style fridges. If a fault re-occurs later it could be due to faulty sensor but if the fault was only due to the door been left open for a few hours accidentally then a total defrost could work. <br /> Whilst we are on with American style frost free fridge freezer's, because the door's are so big and can store so much, the opportunity to overload them is greater. This too causes warm air to pass into the unit and frost it up. Remember a frost free unit will not cope with too much ice on the evaporator so greater care must be taken to use it correctly and check the door seal's regularly. <br /> <b>Water or sheet of ice inside fridge</b><br /> If your fridge has two sloping channels at the back wall and a hole in the middle this is designed to channel the water created on the defrost cycle through to the back of the unit where it runs onto an evaporator tray. This tray sits on top of the compressor and gets quite hot. The water simply evaporates. Sometimes this hole gets clogged up and prevents the water running out to this tray. The result is that water runs into be base of the unit. Very often the appliance will come with small tool for cleaning out this hole, but if not you can improvise.<br /> If the water in the base of the unit is frozen solid it could be that the unit has malfunctioned and is over freezing. The blockage preventing the water running through to the evaporator tray could actually be solid ice.<br /> <b>Summary</b><br /> It's common knowledge that most people rarely read the instruction book supplied with their new appliance. This is particularly true with something like a fridge or freezer. It's easy to imagine most people thinking you only need to plug it in, leave it plugged in, and fill it with food - what's to know?<br /> I would advise anyone with a modern refrigeration appliance, especially the American-style fridge freezers, to carefully read the instruction book. Modern frost-free refrigeration units work very differently to a conventional fridge or freezer. It's even important to learn how to stack them properly otherwise you can prevent the air from circulating inside and cause warm spots.<br /> You would be surprised at what you can learn from reading the instruction book.<br /> Many <a href="http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/instruction-manuals.html">User instruction manuals</a> can be downloaded here. The page concentrates on washing machine manuals but links to appliance manufacturer sites where users such manuals for fridges, freezers and other appliances should also be available.

on May 22, 2011 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

I have an LG ref with Model GR-T382SV. The refrigirator does not get cold but the freezer is fine. What could possibly the problem.


Hello there,


If a section of your refrigerator is not getting cold, either the fridge or freezer compartment. It means there is a problem somewhere in the unit of the refrigerator that needs to be checked.


There are some parts to quickly check on the refrigerator to be able to see where the fault is from. Once checked you will be able to tell what the cause is and how to solve the problem.


Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer (evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils (under the unit) for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if it is running.


If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost thermostat, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.


You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with BOTH DOORS WIDE OPEN to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.


If you have frost build up, it simply is caused by one or more of these factors either faulty defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost timer. Have them tested and replaced once the faulty component is detected.


All the best

Elect_Comp

Sep 19, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator stopped cooling. As close as I can tell the fan in the freezer part was frosted up for a length of time and has possibly ruined the fridges cooling fan? Kenmore model 106 freezer on top.


If the fan in the freezer stops, then coll air from freezer will not pass from freezer section to fridge section.In that case, the freezer section will get over frosted but fridge section will not get cold, because cool air will not pass from freezer to fridge.The fan is there for two things, 1) for cooling the heating evaporator coil and 2) For flowing the cool air from freezer to fridge.---------- If the frost is getting collected and fan is getting stuck up in frost, then this is the problem.The defrost cycle is not running, the cooling cycle is running.---------------
This problem is called defrost problem.-------------

So first thing you try is , perform, manual defrost reset procedure.---------

The manual defrost reset procedure is as follows : ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. Then check,if same frost is getting collected, then its defrost problem,. If it's again building up ice that means the unit is not defrosting. It's starting the cooling procedure, and then while defrosting, it's not working. The defrost assembly consists of three main parts. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and defrost board. Any of the one is not functioning. When thermostat sense the maximum cooling, it triggers the defrost heater to start heating and this defrosts the ice collected on the coils and the system works. Both thermostat and heater are controlled by defrost board. First the thermostat and defrost heater to be checked, if both check ok by meter and visually, then its defrost board causing the problem. You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Sep 18, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge warm. Freezer frosting over. I've


Hi


Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer ( evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils under the unit for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if it is running.
If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.

There can be many factors for the no cooling factor: the condenser coils could be blocked with dust, the condenser fan could be bad or stuck, the freezer fan could be stuck or bed, the freezer coils could be blocked with frost because the self-defrost system is not working or the compressor is not running because of a bad relay etc.


Please check this link to get a detailed idea about your issue:-


http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refrigerator-not-cooling.html


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com


Aug 07, 2011 | Jenn-Air Jenn Air Side-By-Side...

2 Answers

Water is leaking into my fridge from defrost.


Most times this is a plugged defrost drain system. The defrost heater in the freezer section melts the frost and changes it to water, this water is suppose to flow down a drain system. If this drain system is restricted or plugged the water will leak inside the refrigerator. The drain system starts in the freezer section with a tray built under the evaporator coil. The water is funneled through a small hose into a cup in the top middle of the fresh food section ( not on all models, but this is the most common way ), from there, the water is directed out the back wall to a drain hose that runs down the back of the refrigerator into a condensing tray. The heat created under the fridge makes the water evaporate and disappear. Some of the cups ( in the top back of the fresh food section ) can be removed for cleaning. A turkey baster can be used to help clean out the drain system. Fill the baster with hot water and "blast" it into the drain hose to help flush it out. A piece of wire or pipe cleaner can also be pushed into the drain hoses to help clean then out. On a S x S style of fridge the drain system is in the bottom back of the freezer section and often you will have to remove the evaporator cover to access the drain hole. You can clean this out in the same manner as previously mentioned, but because of the water leaking into the freezer instead of the fresh food section you will have to remove the ice build up to clean out the drain system.


If in case the water is leaking on the floor then:--
There are several things to check for. The condensing defrost tray under the fridge can crack or develop a hole and leak onto the floor. A door gasket not closing properly may cause sweating and leak onto the floor. If your fridge has developed a frost free failure problem, often the frost will travel down the suction line at the back of the fridge and drip water on the floor. The heat exchanger tubing can separate and also sweat and drip on the floor. Ice maker and chilled water fill lines can crack and leak as well, this is fairly common with the plastic lines as they can dry out and crack.
Unplug the unit from main power outlet and empty whole unit and keep both the doors open and then connect the power after 24 hours and recheck.This procedure is called manual defrost reset.If this helps then its OK,but if this procedure not helping then its the faulty defrost unit and it needs to be replaced.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.


Aug 30, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

Fridge is 12 years old or so and freezer has been icing up. The fridge is now suffering from global warming and is near useless, being the same temp as the outside air (it's summer here in NZ, yipee!). But...


IF THE FREEZER HAS FROST AND ICE NO COLD AIR WILL BLOW TO THE REF SECTION, YOU MAY HAVE A DEFROST ISSUE. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR OVERNIGHT THEN TRY TOMAROW IF THIS WORKS IT WILL FROST UP AGAIN UNLESS YOU CAN LOCATE WITCH DEFROST PART IS BAD.AND REPLACE IT. HOPE THE SURF IS GOOD! ANYHOW

Jan 13, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

42'' monogram getting very hot between doors and in unit above


This is typical for frost-free refridgerators/freezers. In order to keep ice from buiding up on the interior walls of the freezer section, the manufacturer installs electric defrosting elements and extra "warming" elements in the outer edges of the cabinet, normally around the door openings to help mitigate any frost/ice build up and surface condensation that typically occurs on the exterior surfaces as the doors are opened and closed frequently.

These edge warmers stay very warm to keep ice and condensation from accumulating and will become VERY very warm (hot) when the fridge/freezer is in the once a day defrost cycle.

Unless you have an energy saver switch (GE trademark) inside the fridge section, which you can turn off, there is no way to disable these added elements. If you find that you're getting ice building up in the freezer, you'll need to turn off the energy saver switch to resolve that issue.

Energy Saver switch "ON" means these elements are off, while having the ES switch "OFF" means those heaters are running all the time and costing you more in energy consumption

Jul 13, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Amana energy saver not keeping fridge section cool enough. HELP!


if there is frost build up on rear wall of freezer section the unit is not going through defrost cycle which builds up frost on evaporator and restricts cold air flow to the fresh food section. one of three things are bad. defrost heater, defrost thermostat or defrost timer. if no frost on rear wall you might be low of freon.

Jun 24, 2009 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

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