Question about GE JVM1631 Microwave Oven

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GE JVM1631BB not heating

Everything with the microwave works minus the heating up. My fuse is good. The door interlocks ohm'd out fine. The capacitor is holding a charge--in fact I discharge it and the voltage returns to ~2.2V. This doesn't seem right, though. I also get resistance between the 2 leads, too. This shouldn't be happening, right? Any suggestions are appreciated.

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  • MOTRSPRT Jun 02, 2009

    MicrowaveSVC,

    It appears that one of your links explained a bit more in detail about the diode, and mentioned how it should continuity only one way. If continuity exists in both directions then the diode is bad, and my diode shows continuity both ways. So, I am going to replace the diode and see what happens. I'll post on here the results.

    Thanks!

  • MOTRSPRT Jun 05, 2009

    I hooked everything back up and closed the breaker. I put some butter in the mw (it melts fast) to test and started the mw. Butter did not melt and I heard a small pop inside behind the keypad area. Killed power, removed the diode and fuse. Fuse tests okay, but now the diode measures resistance in both directions again. Something keeps killing the diode. Any suggestions from here?

  • MOTRSPRT Jun 05, 2009

    Just finished testing the transformer as per the link provided. I didn't remove the transformer from the mw.
    The steps said to test the HV leads from the xformer terminal and they measured 68 ohms.

    Next step was to measure from one primary terminal to the other and it measured .6 ohms.

    Next step was to measure from primary terminal to chassis ground and it measured open.

    Next step was to measure the filament leads from one to the other and it measured .3 ohms.

    Last step was to measure each filament terminal to chassis ground and these measured open.

    Basically, it appears that my xformer is functioning properly. So, in theory the power from the AC plug feeds the xformer which feeds the capacitor/diode. This in turn feeds the stepped up voltage to the magnetron. Right? So, why does the diode keep going south?

  • MOTRSPRT Jun 07, 2009

    Okay, I checked the magnetron and it checked out good. The connectors are not burned in any way. Overall, it looks to be in good shape. But, if the continuity checks out the magnetron may still be faulty. Yes?

    After I replaced the diode and ran the mw, if the mag was still good I should've got heat "until" the diode blew, right? If the mag was good. But, since my butter wasn't even affected then the problem seems to pretty much point in the direction of the magnetron. I was just thinking that maybe, just maybe, the repair shop sold me a less than adequate diode. For the 10 seconds it ran prior to me hearing the little "pop" the butter should've melted to some degree. OR, if the diode is an inferior piece would it be functioning properly in conjunction with the capacitor?

    What do you think I should do from here? This mw's build date was July 2001. Just try to get the magnetron replaced under warranty?

  • MOTRSPRT Jun 19, 2009

    Update:

    I called the number you suggested, and within 5 minutes the new magnetron was in the mail! No fuss at all. Thanks for that number--I hope others will be able to take advantage of that phone number. The magnetron arrived 3 days later and I began to r & r the magnetron. A note for others: to replace the magnetron on this microwave, remove the outer shell of the mw and the bottom portion of the mw. Inside the right hand side of the mw is a metal divider that needs to be removed. Once these things are out of the way you can remove the xformer and replace the magnetron. As far as I could tell, the xformer MUST be removed. Otherwise, there is not enough room to pull out the old magnetron. I got everything buttoned up and reconnected, bought a new diode, and restored the power to the plug. However, I am still not out of the water. After about 2 seconds of the mw running, it started humming loudly. Way louder than what it used to do. I shut the mw off and could smell a little bit of burned electronics. My fuse is still good, and my diode is still good. Everything was reconnected as it was before. So, I thought I'd post an update to this same thread before I do a search for humming microwave's.



    Any help is appreciated :)

  • MOTRSPRT Jun 24, 2009

    Update and final post: The loud humming noise turned out to be an open break in the insulation for the HV wire leading to the capacitor. I fixed the wire, buttoned everything up, and melted butter like the mw used to do! For the cost of 2 diodes, I replaced 2 diodes and the magnetron = $24. For the most part, this mw should last at least another 8 years :)



    Thanks to MicrowaveSVC who gave me the correct information needed to get this task done because a new microwave is about $250 more than I have right now.

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    > the power from the AC plug feeds the xformer which feeds the
    capacitor/diode. This in turn feeds the stepped up voltage to the
    magnetron. Right?

    Right.

    >
    So, why does the diode keep going south?

    Again, I refer you to my info about the magnetron:

    -paste-

    BUT FIRST
    , I would recommend that you carefully inspect the
    plastic around the connectors on the magnetron for signs of melting or
    warping.

    It's not uncommon to have a bad magnetron and shorted diode diode.

    This oven's magnetron has a 9-year warranty.

    If it's within that time (by the tag on the inside of the unit) GE will
    send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at
    888-239-6832.

    Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.

    Let us know how it goes.

    # # #

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    Please refer back to my Clarification Request
    Posted by MicrowaveSvc on Jun 03, 2009 concerning the magnetron.

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    That would mean it's bad if it's shorted.

    It is part #
    WB27X1160 and you can find it here but it runs almost $50!

    I would instead recommend the generic part GLC3-A from Global Micro Parts here.

    It's just used as a snubber diode, so it will work for you just fine.

    BUT FIRST, I would recommend that you carefully inspect the plastic around the connectors on the magnetron for signs of melting or warping.

    It's not uncommon to have a bad magnetron and shorted diode diode.

    This oven's magnetron has a 9-year warranty.

    If it's within that time (by the tag on the inside of the unit) GE will
    send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at
    888-239-6832.

    Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.

    Let us know how it goes.

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    There
    should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
    behind the
    control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
    very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.





    Here are some links you
    or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read
    the safety warnings first:



    http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_tes...


    http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.h...
    (if it is NOT shorted or burned looking,
    it's probably fine)



    http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_tes...
    (continuity can be good even
    though mag is bad!)



    http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer...


    You can find
    helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
    model number from the tag on the oven
    here.

    Let us know if you need more help.


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  • GE Master
  • 9,047 Answers

If the measurements you got on the high voltage transformer match what is specified on the mini-manual, then the transformer is probably okay. If there is a serious difference, that may mean the high voltage is too high, which can destroy the high voltage rectifier diode. Otherwise, you have a bad magnetron, regardless of how well it ohms out. Even though the magnetron's continuity readings are good, the magnetron can still be bad. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • William Miller
    William Miller Jun 08, 2009

    For some reason I couldn't post another clarification request. I think they want the thread to end.

    But seriously, the solution I posted is all but certain.

    Good luck.

    We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

×

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First of all, be sure your AC line voltage is correct at the outlet, at between 105 and 125VAC. If not, call an electrician.

There should be a technical sheet hidden behind the controller or behind the grille or the oven. It's helpful when troubleshooting. If you don't find yours, e-mail me for a copy.

Next take a look at the fuse holder connections and wire terminal connections on the filter board where the fuse is.

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