The sander seems to work fine when you switch it on, but when you touch the pad to the workpiece, you can feel something shift or slip. Then, as you work, you can feel the sander pulling you in small rotations - the sander is not just going where you want it to, it has some vobration or rotation that makes the sander shake somewhat, and does not sand the workpiece very well. The outside edge of the back of the sanding pad has a groove worn in it from touching the body of the sander as you use it.
This means the sander has been droped and the pad support and/or the bearing orbit has been bent, maybe even the motor shaft. Never leave any power tool sitting on a bench, always set it on the floor, it will end up there at some time anyways. You can try replacing a part at a time and spend a lot of money and time, but is it worth it?
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If you go on a Bosch factory web site you should be able to enter your model and down load a parts list. From that you will see that the motor drive an eccentric dog that causes the plate to jitterbug. If you kept the original paperwork you will have had this with it. All Bosch units come with warranty and parts list. Look up your nearest Bosch tools agent, see if he'll strip it if you can't and determine what's needed. You may find its easier and more cost effective to shop around online for a special offer and buy a new one. Not very green I know but may be more practical.
A quarter turn is too much. You should only turn the wheel a maximum of 1/16 turn. Sanding should be done with just the sand (not the paper) touching the workpiece. Patience is the key for drum sanders. Courser grit sandpaper will help remove material faster if that's your goal.
that is possible, but was the tool operating properly first?? unplug tool and check the cord for any breaks, then what I would do is clean the tool as good as possible with compressed air and if you can remove the brush caps do so and check the condition of the spring and clean the area. DO NOT sand the brushes but look across the face to see if both look worn evenly. If you have a volt ohms meter check from the plug to the brush holder with the switch on brushes removed to see if you have continuity and if not then I would have to think the switch
Just under the sandpaper pad is a bearing that allows the pad to work as an orbital, that is it can turn freely, independently of the armature. If enough sawdust builds up around or inside this bearing the pad will spin like you describe and this is a fairly common problem with orbital sanders. You need Makita part number 211236-8 or a bearing #6002LL. It's fairly easy to replace; remove the screw in the center of the pad and remove it. Depending on which is tighter, the bearing will either be in the back of the pad or it will stay on the armature. Pry it off/out of the sander. Reassemble everything with the new bearing and you'll be back in business.
This is generaly due to previous adhesive buildup on the backing pad OR, the face of the backing pad is breaking down and cracking.There are two ways to handle this. You can try scrubing the crud off the pad (I wouldn't) or, you can get a new backing pad for your sander. At this point, you might want to go with a velcro type pad or hook and loop as they call it (cleaner and no goop). Check your local home depot for pads. If you cannot find one, I would suggest you call Klingspor abrasives Co. They have area reps all over the United States. I know, as I used to be one of them.They carry,.. and will send you pads via UPS. Just make sure you don't try to put a 6in pad on a 5in sander or vice-versa as the pads are weight-mated to the sanders. If you do, you will burn up the motor in your sander rather quickly.
It sounds like you need to replace the backing pad on the sander. Over time the velcro (hook & Loop) on the backing pad will loose its stick. A Bosch service cneter can supply you with a new one, just let them know which model you have. If its an adhesive back sanding pad the same thing applys just get a new one. Hope this helps
You did not specify how the sanding discs are meant to be attached to your sander's backing pad. My experience with this type of problem is material from the sanding process builds up on the backing pad and does not allow the sanding discs to adhere properly.
If you have a velcro type system, clean the hooks on the sander's backing bad by soaking the pad's face in a plate of paint thinner for 20 to 30 minutes then use a wire brush to remove the rest of the paint physically.
For adhesive pads clean the sander's backing pad surface with denatured alcohol. Do not use isopropryl or rubbing alcohol as this may not be 100% alcohol and could contain a lubricant like glycerin. When the sander's backing pad is completely dry and clean it will hold adhesive backed pads fine.
Flaky paint is best scraped off before sanding, use a wide putty knife or a paint scaper to remove large flakes before sanding. This will minimize airborne dust and cleanup.
For best results with adhesives, always keep your surfaces clean!
Good luck and happy sanding! Michael Mittelsdorf
If I am correct, when holding the tool in the normal operating position there should be an oblong cover on teh left hand side nea the back of the tool. It should be held on with a screw. remove this cover and you can access the belt . MAKE SURE THE TOOL IS UNPLUGGED. the belt should pull off/push on with a bit of force. Turning the pulleys as you put it on will help it go on evenly. If it is too stiff, put the belt in some boiling water for a minute or two to soften it up a bit.