It must cool before it will restart. It is a GE DBSR453EB2WW. The problem has been narrowed down to one of the 3 sensors on the element housing. Is the problem the high limit thermostat, the safety thermostat, or the thermal fuse? how do I know which part is bad? My dryer was shutting off with a full or heavy load after just a minute or two. I posted the problem here at the beginning of May and found that if we just used the Timed Dry, the dryer was able to dry a full load of clothes. Now, after 3 weeks, the dryer will not start at all. The light does not come when we open the door. What part do you think we will need to replace?
Ok, the light will not come on if the door pressure swicth is damaged and, the dryer will not start if this switch is damaged as well. replace the door pressure switch asap.
Ok, concerning the interuppted drying cycle due to high heat, this can be cuased by two issue. It coudl be a venalation issue. if the dryers vent duct and exuast hoses are clogged, thsi will cuased the element to reach unsafe tempreturs, in return, tripping the high limit thermostsat and shutting the dryer off in the middle of the load cycle.
Another problme spot woul dbe a fualty high limit thermaostae. Although this is highly unlikey, this coudl be your issue.
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a
hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
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