My glass top stove is only 14 months old and all of a sudden the temp will not hold. When we set the temp, the digital reading slowly gets there but the stove is actually not reaching the temp that was set.
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Re: Oven won't stay hot
the digital control for the JPT-18 and customer are trying to have GE replace them. It is called the F7 error
Click the link above to see more about the problem. GE wants the customer to pay for the error. Hope this helps. JT
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There are several possibilities. Make certain your fuse at the main electrical box is correct for a 220VAC line. You do not want to OVER POWER the range. If that is normal, check all cords for insulation and flexibility. Check thermostat controls on the burners and/or oven.
If parts are normal, the only thing you can do is manually set temps lower when using the oven. Glass tops generally stay hot for several minutes after they are turned off. That is Normal, for example, to avoid Glass from fracturing; temperature slowly declines. Lastly; if all is lost, call for a serviceman to check it out, as you do not want a house fire.
Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
google -- user manual for ( make and model of stove ) and download the pdf version
failing that go to places like Jaycar and buy an infrared thermometer
you aim this unit at where you want to read the temperature and it reads it
so aim it at the oven glass and you have the temp
or aim it at a hot plate and you have the temp
There is a temperature switch that shuts the power down if the temperature goes too high. This is to prevent a fire if your thermostat sticks on. Sometimes the switch will become weak and open the circuit at too low of a temperature. Replacing the switch should solve your problem.
If you need more assistance, post a comment with the model and s/n of your stove.
Hi, It very well could be the ignitor. Sometimes they work at first and then will not open the gas valve later in cycle. You can set the oven to heat and watch the ignitor. If it glows and the gas will not ignite in 30 to 45 seconds, the igniter is getting weak. I jope this helps.
Please let me know if I can assit you further.
It is not a fault with the door, and this sort of event occurs quite often, so is not uncommon.
All sorts of things can cause this, sudden change in temp, getting the glass wet whilst it is still hot, a knock or bang form an earlier time could have weakened the glass.
The list is quite long..
Depending on your household insurance, some policys cover for breakage of glass fittings, would be worth checking.
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