Question about GE GSF25TGW
I have a GE GTS22WCMBRCC that was working perfectly until we had a power outage, the power outage must have lasted about 10 hours or so, when power came back on, the refrigerator and the freezer will not cool or freeze, I did not see any leak in the back from the refrigerant, but not really sure. Any support will be greatly appreciated
Possibly the drain tube for the condensate(water) is plugged due to ice having built up on freezer coils. Check coils to see if they are iced up. Sometimes especially in humid climates the defrost mechanism even if working gets overpowered by moisture. If so defrost coils manually and clear drain tube.
Posted on Sep 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That leaves only one possible fault; the volatile component of your coolant/lubricant has escaped.
If the unit has been moved or cleaned carelessly, one of the coolant- bearing tubes has developed a leak. Any refrigeration tech will have a leak detector in his tool set so it shouldn't be difficult to find.
Depending on the area in which you live, expect the troubleshooting and recharging to run ~$150-$250 US.
If you reside in the US, check your local (area) Better Business Bureau for a trustworthy service company.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
SOURCE: Refrigerator will not cool
Unplug power, pull refrigerator away from wall and gently remove and examine both sides of control board, Look for burn marks or smell of burns and then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
If the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling you may have lost the refrigerant. See if the condenser coils at the back or bottom are hot. If they are only warm then the refrigerant is low and can be recharged. Service tech should check for leak in coolant system.
Posted on May 30, 2009
Remove the screw , on the left side of the control panel , and pull the panel , from the left side , outward to the right . You should now see , slightly to the right , from the middle , a black screw , a hole with slot , and slightly higher to the right , a hole with a white piece , with a hole in it . Now , the hole with the slot , turn with a screwdriver , until you hear/feel a louder click . Turn this slowly . When you hit the right click , the refrig will shut off . Remove the inside rear freezer panel ( and ice maker if equiped ) , by removing 3 or 4 screws , pop off the grill piece , and may have to twist the ice maker receptical slightly , to remove . If you do not see the heater on ( red ) , below the coils , then the heater is most likely the problem . pt # WR51x464 . Your old one , has a glass tube , but the new one , is calrod . I believe 2 screws hold this heater on .. If the glass heater does come on , then the problem is the defrost timer ( the piece you turned with the screwdriver ) which is removed , by removing that black screw and bending the panel out slightly . Pt # WR9X520 .
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
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