Question about Washing Machines

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I have a bosch washing machine that has worked for three years last night when i turned it on it made a loud ping noise. it will now start to fill or if i put it on drain it will drain but tub wont spin. it is a nexxt front loader. i have taken it apart and do not see anything obivious that broke any suggestions i am very capable of repairing if i could get some advice of where to start.

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  • sdarras34 Jun 02, 2009

    WFMB200UC/01 [FD8508] TYPE WAM1

  • sdarras34 Jun 02, 2009

    when on the spin cycle it will run the drain pump for one minute and then stop. in other words it starts on 9:00 minutes runs the drain pump through 8:00 min. and then stops and shows 2:00 minutes on the timer, but will not ever spin or do anything else. does this help?

  • sdarras34 Jun 03, 2009

    yes it was very helpful just beyond my abilities to repair but let me know that i needed a technician

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Please use the "continue with this expert" option, and reply with your exact model # so I can assist you further.

Thanks!!

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

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  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    While i wait - there are 3 possiblilities on why your washer will not spin.

    Defective Motor, Defective Speed Controller, Or defective timer.

    Any of these failing will cause the condition you are describing, and will need to be tested.

    BOSCH units are difficult to find parts for.

    Popping sounds usually indicate failed components on the controller board.

    With the correct model #, I can attempt to lead you to a part replacement.

    Thanks!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    if you put it on a wash cycle, does it attempt to agitate once filled? Is there any clicking noise after the fill cycle indicating it is moving on to the next cycle - or does it stay silent? Same after the drain - is there any noise?

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    The Nexxt series has a BIG (known) problem with the controller boards. They are prone to failure with minimal voltage spikes or current draws.



    It would be wise to test the 2 other components I listed earlier - as they are cheap in comparison to the board.



    If the board is the culprit - you're looking at around $300+ for the part.



    Testing is the key for your repair.



    If you're uncertain on how to test the motor, or speed controller - a service call might be in order for you. Once you open up the back of the machine - there should be a service manual inside that will let you know the spec tolerances for the speed controller and the motor.



    Throwing parts in without testing the old ones could get costly. A $80 service call would be worh determining if your $300 controller is bad... and then you'll have to weigh the option of using that $300 toward a new washer or fixing the one you have.



    A Digital Multimeter (and the ability to use it properly) is a requirement for testing your components.



    Sometimes simply opening up the machine will give you a better idea what is going on - sniff for burned electrical contacts and look for browned or black components. If there is no voltage to the motor during the spin cycle - the speed controller or the control board is bad (may be located on the same board on your unit).



    Decide which path you are going to take, and If you need more help, just let me know.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    one other thing that popped into my head after hitting send...



    your machine has a load balance sensor. if it has failed - it will not spin - as the controller does not get the required signal to start spinning (safety reasons)



    Thought Id offer that up as well....



    However - the machine not throwing out any error codes leads back to the controller board itself being at fault.



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    the list is getting longer :D

    This will be the last comment until I hear back from you (i promise :) )

    If your door latch switch has failed - it is another safety mechanism that would stop any spinning action for safety reasons again... however it would throw out an error code too if it failed.

    Looking more and more like the Controller board, unfortunately.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    this could be your preliminary test. Simply jumper out the 2 wires going to the switch, and the washer will be tricked that it is engaged.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 02, 2009

    Although it rarely helps, hav you unplugged the machine for 10 minutes to attempt a hard reset?

    Give it a try!

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