My Freud TR215 chop saw was working fine until I used too much
pressure finishing a cut. Next attempt produced not-normal
noise. Unplugged, the blade moved rough by hand, almost like
it was rubbing against something. Inspection that day and the next
showed nothing rubbing. Took the blade off, nut back on - ran
ok. Replaced w/ new blade, turned on and got abnormal noise, two
pitched with second pitch on turning off. Is this saw fried? Thanks
for your advice.
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Its conversely sometimes possible if you was asking about a wood saw with a steel saw blade but i cannot advice that in both application its not safe because not only of the difference of power but most it is the much higher RPM by diameter, just beware always on the max rpm you can read on your saw blades!!, it can give strange accidents with objects it can grab and swinging outbroken parts away.
Unplug the saw first. Then raise the guard and lower the blade onto a piece of wood to keep the blade from turning. Using a proper wrench, turn the nut in the direction the blade spins when cutting and remove the nut and blade.
I have a FT2200 with a bad speed control unit 76348. 8015. Freud no longer supplies this part. I bypassed it, and I am using an external variable speed control supply. The only setback is there is no longer "Torque Control". This presents a problem if the bit burns, but I control the speed of feed. So for, I am getting by. A new one is TOO expensive.
If the only variable is the material and not different blades, different operators, different feed rates --- then the variable is just that, the material. Abrasive cutoff wheels actually work best on somewhat hard materials. They will make big burrs (this is known as galling) when used to cut softer material. And once a wheel starts to do this, it will tend to load up (just like fine sandpaper does when sanding a painted surface) - and this loading up will cause more galling and poor performance. You might be able to intervene by dressing the wheel. You might be able to do that with a carbide tool insert held in locking pliers. The variability of your galvanized channel can be come from the steel itself being softer sometimes, but might be mostly due to the varying thickness of the zinc plating (which is what galvanized is). Zinc is very soft.
I hope you find this helpful.
Sometimes the edgeof a cutting disk can become clogged with particles of the material being cut e.g. cast iron or soft metals. Try cutting a piece of brick or other hard material to chip away the edge of the disk to expose new abrasive
With power off grab both sides of the blade and try to rocking (NOT SPINNING) the blade in opposide directions on each side of the balde. Then while rocking the blade, see if the armature teeters inside the motor.
It it does have excessive movement then the rear motor bearing is probably worn excessively.
I have to ask if this is a 110V cut off saw and your trying to use it on 220V because it will produce the exact symtoms you described.
I also note that you did not mention if you had changed the brushes. Worn brushes or weak brush springs can also cause the symptom you describe.
It might need a new blade. But try putting an old tile or offcut behind the tile you are cutting. Make sure the table surface is clean and flat. Residue tends to build up around the front of the blade which could cause the tile to crack. The ryobi's have a habit of water getting into the motor and the bearing destroys itself. Next time you take the blade off, take of the blade support and put bearing grease behind the rubber washer. I've blown up two this year until I worked out what the problem was.
The machine should have a data plate somewhere. This may give blade RPM or motor rpm, then its out witrh the calculator to work out the blade speed. The crucial number however is not the rpm but the peripheral speed in feet or meters per minute.
Used to work with a power tool manufacturer, a standard woodcutting chop saw will safely cut alloy. Two things, watch the blade type, and watch out for metal swarf entering the motor and switchgear !.
Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.