Low Suction pressure. Filter is clean. Coil is clean. Reversing valve is disconnected. It energizes on heat. There is a pin hole in the cap tube off the back side of the coil on the reversing valve. Freon liquid line pressure is good. Freon level is o.k. Do I need to replace the reversing valve? Or can the coil be replaced with a remote sensing bulb to be attached with out solder?
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Re: Reversing valve issues.
You will need to replace the reversing valve. You cannot replace the coil with a remote sensing bulb on this unit. Usually you know when reversing valves get stuck when you are having low side problems with heat working properly
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if it is a heat pump you could have a clogged actuator piston or a stuck reversing valve depending on whether the unit is energized in the heating or cooling cycle. Try pulling the wire on the reversing valve coil on and off a few times and that may force it to unstick. There is a lubricant that you can pour directly into the true suction line above the reversing valve itself. Supco oil is the name i believe. Also can try removing the actuator piston at both the condenser and the evaporator and checking to see if there is some trash in the line, especially if the lines were brazed without using nitrogen.
On a heat pump the difference from heat to cool is the reversing valve.
In cooling or heating the Y1 terminal will always be energized, this is the contactor.
Depending on brand the reversing valve will either be energized in Heat or Cool. At the outdoor unit check to see if the reversing valve is getting 24 volts in cool, if not check to see if it is getting 24 volts in heating. The easiest way to check if the reversing valve is shifting, is to feel the big copper tube, (it is not the suction line on a heat pump) this is a refrigerant vapor line. It will be cold in cooling and hot in heating. Check your thermostat installation instructions and heat pump installation instructions to determinethe proper terminal designations for your heat pump and thermostat. There are some brands out there that use the B terminal as common to the 24 volt circuit, so you have to check the wiring and make sure this is not common. If it is energized in Cool then the Y1 and O terminal will be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and O. If it’s energized in Heat then the Y1 and B terminal should be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and B.
If you get heat when you’re calling for cooling or vice versa then switch the wire between the B and O terminals.
A 100# suction line if R22 refrigerant is way too high, possible bad reversing valve or compressor valves, with low head pressure and high suction pressures. is the amp draw lower than the lister RLA or run load amps?
According to the reading sound like compressor is working fine .There are other issue that contribute to no cooling and the main one is dirty filters so check your filter to see if it's dirty and clean or replaced it .
If filter is fine then you might have dirty evaporator or condenser coil so clean those out too .
Does this unit have 2 compressor and if it does is the 2 compressor running
Sounds like low on freon. The suction line will turn cooler upon first start up. Heat pumps do sound scary but you all ready have cked the reverse valve coil, ck the lines in\out temp. If you can ck temps on your suction line vers press. repost if you need more help.
The reversing valve coil may be bad or no power to it during cool. Most heatpumps are set to have the coil of the reversing valve energize in the cool mode. The heating mode is the fail safe mode if the rev valve fails to energize. Check this and let me know.
Look for any refrigerant leaks - no or low refrigerant can cause problems in both modes. The unit may be going off on low suction.
The unit may be stuck in the heating mode.
Make sure the system is calling for the correct mode (cooling or heating) - some systems are auto, but if you can, select cooling since that is the requested mode. Check for power at the reversing valve inside the condensing unit. If power exists, then the reversing valve is stuck. It could also be the reversing valve solenoid coil, so make sure that isn't bad. There should be a strong magnetic field at the solenoid coil.
If you can hear the reversing valve clicking (moving), check the T-stat and make sure it will switch modes. Also check the reversing valve relay (those can be located in either the indoor unit or condensing unit).
check the true psi with the line psi to see if same if psi is good in cooling 225 hi and 70 low on 80'day then compressor is fine and i would start checking for temp difference on the reversing valve sometimes this will cause high suction or high discharge psi shift it manually with by energising it be cooling or heating then pull wire and see how it shifts if shifts good then txv on out door unit could be bad what is the psi in heating on the discharge line going to the indoor unit? most prv's are set at about 350 psi r22 as for suction line size its only hot gas in hp mode os no problem their shows in cooling mode as low suction psi ..hope this helps some also make sure indoor coil is clean!....thanks & rate me
The first thing you need to do is fix the hole in the coil. It will only getworse no matter what you do. The reversing valve is controlled by the thermostat, then to the defrost board, as it has a timer, sensor and all that jazz. As to your question, that is a tricky one. The way I found worked best for heat pumps is to turn it to cool. If its so cold outside that it will not turn on because of an outside thermostat, cover the coil and yourself with a cardboard box or a large tarp. Give yourself some room of course, get a set of gauges that has temp. ring for R-22.Take suction temp. from the line about 1 foot from the compressor, look at the low side of the gauge and find the temperature, not the pressure for R-22. You should have a 20 degree differential. If more than 20, add freon, less remove. This sounds a little odd, but its easy to overcharge heat pumps on the heat mode. The condenser has a sensor that switches on the electric heat if the heat pump is not working. Ice on the condenser is normal on heat mode, that's why there is a defrost board.