Had circuit board repaired, unfortunately, we still seem to have a problem. Upon installing the reworked board, we seemed to get the same result - wouldn't progress through the cycles.
However, I inadvertently left the washer in the normal/run mode overnight, next morning discovered it had run through all cycles, and completely cleaned the dishes I had optimistically left in the machine.
Subsequently, I have eliminated the door switch, the pump/motor (washes and drains - opposite directions of rotation - OK), fill switch and the keypad. If you force the machine into most modes (not sure about all), it seems to work properly. It just won't cycle through them by myself. I am about out of things to check, and was hoping someone out there would have a suggestion.
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Please, check to insure that your washer is properly grounded. If you do not know what that means, call an electrician. Modern wash machines are controlled by circuit boards that operate on low voltage and are vulnerable to static electricity. Spikes or gaps in the electrical service from your power company could also be the problem. Your electrician should be able to help you with that as well.
Water-heating cycle Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next, depends, as follows:
* On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time. * On others, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycle problem" is fixed too.
Timer Timers don't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in one place doing one function continuously the timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it.
unfortunately the circuit board is the next part on the list to change as the relay that controls the blower is integral to the board. Before changing you need to verify that the relay ?board is the problem, this can be acomplished by using an ammeter on the common of the fan circuit, the amperage should reamin fairly constant during the entire run cycle, listen for "clicks" coming from the board during the last part of the run cycle as you described this issue when the unit is about to shut off. hope this helps...(the relay is a small black square on the GMC board, there are usually two side by side on the board.)
Water-heating cycle Timer Water-heating cycle
Manydishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature,as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses afterit has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-settemperature. What happens next, depends, as follows:
On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time.
Onothers, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the highertemperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn'tbeing heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element orthermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it nevercontinues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycleproblem" is fixed too.
Timersdon't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to beworking properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in oneplace--doing one function continuously--the timer may be at fault.Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it.
Let me know how it goes. I'm still thinking and searching my repair manuals! Huuum Please remember to leave a rating!
KENMORE ELITE TOP LOAD
Washer stops, won't fill, rinse or agitate
• Check the following:
Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Is the indicator on the Cycle Control knob properly lined up
with a cycle? Turn the Cycle Control knob to the right slightly
and pull to start. Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on? Is the water inlet hose kinked?
• Does the water level seem too low, or does the washer
appear to not fill completely? The top of the agitator is
much higher than the highest water level. This is normal and
necessary for clothes to move freely.
• Has a fuse blown or is the circuit breaker open? If problem
continues, call an electrician.
• Are you using an extension cord? Do not use an extension
• Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle? The washer
pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the
cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of agitation
• Is the washer overloaded? Wash smaller loads.
• Is the lid open? The lid must be closed during operation.
Washer will not agitate or spin with the lid open.
Junk it! Cut you losses now. I had a Calypso for 6 years and went through 3 pumps, various circuit boards , a drive motor ,etc..... not to mention the down time of not having a washer in a 4 person household. We bought a Whirlpool Duet HT 9200. Clean , fresh laundry not all balled up anymore. Junk it. You'll thank me.
When you switch it on can you still select the wash type ?
If you can, when you shut the door does it start the cycle normally by pumping out the sump, but then when the wash pump (the cause of the main noise during the cycle) would normally start it stops and beeps - opening the door then shows the flashing error code ?
If your symptoms are the same as above or similar, suspect the heater is stuffed. My BFI62 did the above and it turned out to be a faulty (open circuit) heater. As I had no knowledge of dishwashers at the time, I called in a repair guy. As soon as he saw the fault code he suspected the heater - seems a batch of heaters (from the USA) had proved very unreliable (apparently Hotpoint got compensation from the manufacturers because of the number of problems it caused them). The replacement was made in Germany and the repair guy said he'd not known one of those to go faulty !
The repair guy diagnosed the heater open circuit from the control panel inside the door without even removing the dishwasher from it's location. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to note which wires ran off the board to the heater. Changing the heater needed it out and on it's side (be prepared for quite a lot of water on the floor).
Finally, when he'd fitted the new heater, it took him two goes to get the pipes either side of it to seal properly - quite common apparently and the source of even more water on the floor !