a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Its not hard! You need to purchase a tool that goes into your spark plug hole. You remove the spark plug, put this tool in the hole. This tool stops the piston from moving so you can remove the nut holding the clutch. The clutch is what the drive sprocket is attached to. The drive sprocket is where the chain fits on at the engine side. remive the bar and chain and you will see the clutch. Use the tool and then use a wrench that fits the nut on the clutch. be sure you know which way removes the nut. It could be opposite of what you think. some are left hand threads some are not. I think these are not. After you replace the clutch be sure to lube the clutch bearings. Most people don't know this! use a grease gun made for saws and insert it into the hole at the end of the shaft that holds the clutch. Also next time your saw cant saw through a piece of wood, do not give it gas to make the chain try and move.This is what burns up the clutch! If your saw stalls out, and you press the throttle and it still doesn't turn. Always allow the chain to move, pull back and lift up on the saw slightly to get the chain moving again.
this new gas is a carb killer you will need a new diaphragm for the carb and there is a little screan next to the needle and seat that can be cleaned. about a 5.00 repair if done right.. use marine gas
Check the fuel lines for hardness, cracking, splitting, or end rot. Check the muffler for plugging. Check the carburetor fasteners for tightness. Are you using fresh fuel mix? If the carburetor jets have been adjusted, try turning both CW to stops (lightly) then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. Engine should start and run--allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on, and adjust H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Let idle and adjust L CW for fairly smooth running, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for condition. Check the carburetor fasteners for tightness. If the saw has a lot of hours, remove the lower section of the carburetor and check the condition of the diaphragm--it should not be hard/cracked. If everything seems to check out ok, Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then CCW each 1-1/2 turns. The engine should start and run--allow the engine to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H needle CW til the engine speeds up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Let idle and adjust L CW so that the engine runs fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
Remove the spark plug when it quits to check for good blue spark. If ok, squirt some starting fluid into the plug hole, replace the plug, and try to start. If it pops a couple of times, then you have fuel problems. Check the condition of all fuel lines for decay or splitting. Make sure the air cleaner and muffler are not plugged. Check the fuel filter inside the fuel tank for plugging. If everything looks ok, then it is likely time to clean and re-kit the carburetor. Basic setting for both jet needles is 1-1/2 turns CCW from CW stops (lightly). If everything is in order, it should start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, then apply full throttle and adjust the H needle CW until it picks up speed, but still 4-strokes. It should immediately start 2-stroking when cutting. Allow to idle and adjust the L needle so that the engine idles fairly smoothly, yet allows the engine to 'follow-the-throttle'. Hope this helps!
Remove the spark plug and test for spark. If ok, try some starting fluid in the plug hole, install the plug, and try to start. If it runs a short time, it is not getting fuel. Check fuel lines including inside the tank. Clean or replace the air filter. If this saw is fairly old, the carburetor probably needs a re-kit and cleaning. Does it have good compression? Check the muffler for plugging. Make sure the fuel/oil mix is fresh. Good luck!
If you have a compression gauge, check the compression. Anything under 90psi is too low.
Check your flywheel key. If it is broken the flywheel will move and not fire at the correct time.
Note: if it does not sputter with carb cleaner then it's not your carb.
Next: Remove your exhaust manifold. Look into the cylinder with a flash
light. You are looking for scratches. Anything larger then a light
fingernail is definite proof you need a new cylinder/piston assy.
If it passes that test do the following:
mixed fuel straight into your cylinder until 1/4 full. Slowly pull your
saw over while looking into the cylinder. If you see bubbles after the
ring/rings go by then you need a new cylinder/piston assy. On rare
occasions if no scratches are present on the cylinder wall or piston,
you may be able to change just the rings.
If it idles it is not flooding out as it it most vulnerable to flooding at idle if the stalling is happening as you try to throttle it up it is likely starved for fuel. Start by changing the in tank fuel filter, and the spark plug. good chance that will solve your problem. If it does not Turn the high idle screw out in 1/8 turn increments try running the saw after each adjustment. Keep track of the amount that you turn the screw. you might have to put it back to its original position. Some times adjustment screws will vi berate out of adjustment and other times crud will cause fuel restriction opening the screw allows for a larger port for any restrictions to pass through. After you use the saw for a short time turn screw back in if it starts to stall at idle or you notice increased smoke.