The compressor sounds like it is running but after an hour no temp.change from intake. I placed thermo. at nearest duct. inside the vent. It is a rv roof unit. It sat for two years before being run. I,ve looked everything over and all looks ok. Next step measure line voltage? how? Then compressure amp? w/ outside ambient air temp. To calculate RLA? Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks my unit comes on fan and compressor seem to work and sound ok but dose non cool i have an auto repair shop and am familiar with air condishing system was going to check if it was low on freon do not see a valve or port is there a place to check freon level
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Can you tell me what size/make of motorhome you have? Certainly doesn"t sound right to me, and I've been working on them for over 15yrs. Whether it's a 13,500 BTU or 15,000 BTU, it should be plenty as long as motorhome has any insulation at all. I assume you have central air from ceiling? The manufacturer usually states that the AC unit will supply 20F below ambient. Is compressor staying engaged all this time?
Sounds like you are losing vacuum to the HVAC system control or the mode control switch is defective. When you have this problem you will most likely find the air is coming out the defrost vents as that is the default flow when vacuum is lost to the system.
remove cover at ceiling so you can see in at fins and see if they are frosting up bad. If they are, I suspect during AC installation, they didn't open up ducts on discharge properly and air flow is restricted, which will cause freeze up, especially if low flow from discharge ducts. I'm assuming it is a ducted system. You may have to remove or drop down entire ceiling assy, to see if the ducts into ceiling have any blockage. Sometimes they don't cut rubber roof material back far enough, or misaligned ducts and cause restricted flow to ceiling vents, which will cause unit to frost up, which kicks out compressor until frost is melted, then compressor kicks back in and cooling happens again.
The rule of thumb is 20F difference (lower) than ambient temperature. Most manufacturers will tell you 20 F degress is about normal. In your case it does sound a little warm, but I need to ask, sorry. Was it working o.k. before in same basic temperatures? Have you cleaned coils & fins good on Evaporator & condenser recently? Have you removed filter inside & cleaned it as well, and looked to see if coils are frosting up by chance? Is this a ducted or non ducted system? I'm guessing on a 5th wheel, it is ducted, so make sure you have good discharge on all of those as well. Any blockage or restriction on the discharge side will also cause the problem. Keep me posted on what you find.
Its the thermal fuse. when you jump or, by-pass the cycle thermostat, you are basically by-passing the fuse as well. replacing the thermal fuse will fix thsi issue.
The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
I have the same problem....it is a negative pressure problem holding water inside the unit until it overflows the pan and runs into the duct system. why this occurs....I don't know....I cant find a problem with my air return, but as soon as you turn in off, the water comes gushing out the drains on the unit. I resolved this....temporarily....by twisting up a paper towel into a wick, and placing one end up into the drain tray, with the other end lying well out into the exterior case. This lets the water wick out and keeps the tray drained. I don't understand the problem and don't know what the permanent fix will be, except maybe cutting a hole and placing an intake vent directly below the unit.